Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/184

175 LESSON 94.

JUNIOR HALF-FITTING FRENCH SEAM JACKET.—SIZE TWELVE.

The junior size is followed by the same instructions as all others except measurements are changed according to the age or proportions. Age 12 is the first size for junior. The measurements for this size are as follows:

These measurements can also be found in the proportional table for junior sizes. To begin we draw lines from A to 39 and A to D; from A to B is the depth of size, 6 1/4 inches; from A to C is the natural waist length, 13 1/2 inches; from C to D is the hip space; from C to D is one-third of size, 5 inches. Be careful to keep in mind that the breast size of 12 is 30 inches. All parts should be followed according to the size number, which is 30; cross all lines at A, B, C and D; from B to G and D to E is two-thirds of size, or 10 inches; draw a line from E to G up to U, then take one-half of B to G, which makes H; from H to I is also 1 1/4 inches; cross a line up from I to J; from A to K is one-sixth of size, or 2 1/2 inches; from K to L is always 1 inch; cross a line for the back shoulder from L against J to make M; square a line down to meet I so as to make the width of shoulder in back; then make the back body line; from D to Y is one-twelfth of size; from C to S is 1/2 inch more; connect a line from Y to S; from S up to A; from G to F is one-sixth of size; now cross a line up from F to Q, then measure from O to R and from R to O, which is one-sixth of size; from R to W is also one-sixth of size; cross a line from O, which is the neck point to T, for the front shoulder line; measure from L to M the width of shoulder on back and place the same from to U; cross a line from U to F for the front armhole; then measure one-half of bust, which is 32 inches from T to V; from V to X, allow 3 inches for seams; square a line down from X to Z, which is on the waist line; from Z to 1 is 1/2 inch; cross a line down from X to 1 and 4, then measure over for a button stand from X to 25, which is 3 inches, and the same from 1 to 3 and 4 to 43, from Y to 7 is one-sixth of size, and 1/2 inch more; from S to 5 is 1 inch less than from Y to 7; from 7 to 31 is 3/4 inch; from 5 to 6 is 1 inch; cross line from 7 to 5 and from 31 to 6; cross a line from 5 to 48, then connect with a round curve from 6 up to 48 on the breast line. Before dividing the shoulder, which is 48. we first allow from M to N 3/4 inch and divide from L to N to make 48; from G to 28 is 3/4 inch; from E to 27 is also 3/4 inch; cross a line from 8 to 27. then towards the back from 8 is 1/4 inch; from 9 to