Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/18

9 PROPORTIONAL HEIGHT SCALE.

The proportional and Antomatic Table of sizes in these pages gives the length for depth, side body, natural waist and skirt length in front, ranging from 5 feet to 6 feet, arranged to correspond with the width of breast from 32 to 48 inches. Although it only gives them to 48 inches, it can readly be calculated what increase is needed for any size above this figure by comparing the difference between the size below and adding it to 48 to get the size wanted.

The number on the top line of each little space is the natural waist length. The second row is the depth of size in back, from top line to the breast line. The third row is the side body length, from under arm to waist line.

On the bottom of this table of proportions we have the proportional skirt lengths for any height wanted. The complete heights are placed under the height number and it shows all the lengths.

This table gives 147 different sizes and many more combinations which are valuable and simplifies the method of correcting measures. In applying it to practical use we give the following examples, which will make it clear and readily understood.

Suppose we have a person measuring 36 breast, and whose height is 5 feet 6 inches, and want to find the proportion for use in drafting. We first look for the breast size, 36, on the side; and on the number of height, 5 feet 6 inches. Now we go down from the last number till we are opposite 36, and we find in the little box space 15 1/2 natural waist length, 7 inches depth of size in back, and 8 1/2 inches side body length under arm.

Take another case: 42 size on the side, and on the top 5 feet 10 inches, and, going down from the last, find the space opposite 42, and we have length of waist 16 7/8 and also the other measurements. In the same way we find all and every size for use.

In drafting proportionate garments apply the sizes found on the scale or table of proportions, and when the height increases or decreases find the corresponding size. This can easily be found because it is seldom necessary to deviate more than two sizes from the proportionate.

The manner of using the table for short or tall figures is the same as the regular form.

By using the table of proportions in the manner explained, anv size corresponding to the form can be easily found, and it is, therefore, valuable not only for regular height, but also for short and tall forms.