Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/178

169 LESSON 92.

MISSES' SIXTEEN SIZE FIVE-GORE SKIRT.

The system of skirts for misses are also the same as the 36 size skirt, only the front changes in width and the other measurements are followed acccording to the size wanted. The measurements for this skirt are as follows:

To draft, draw lines from A to B and A to D; from A to C is one-half of waist measure, or 11 1/2 inches; from C to D is 3 inches; from D cross a line up to E, which is one-sixth of the size that this skirt should be. This skirt is sizes 16 to 34, which is 5 3/4 inches; cross line from E to A; from A to G is the hip line, 5 3/4 inches, the same as from E and F; cross a line from G to F and measure one-half of the hip; make a curve as shown on the diagram from A and J to E; then measure the length from A to B, 40 inches, in the front; from J to M is 41 1/3 inches side length; from E to L is 43 inches back length; from A to I is 2 inches; from B to K is 4 inches, which is the bottom of the front. Divide from I to E, which makes J; from K to L makes M; cross a line from J to M, which is the side seam for this skirt, take out one-eighth of an inch lost down to the hip line with a curve, then measure over the waist from A and I to E, and take out the over-built of waist on both sides of J. which makes N and O lost with a curve to the hip, as shown on diagram. Be careful to allow a small amount raised up at N and O in order to keep the equal roundness of this garment when having it sewed up. This skirt can also be cut with as many gores as wanted. Only the width of front must be changed to all different gores; the width of front for misses' size are as follows: For 5-gore skirt, 2 inches; for 7-gore skirt, 1 3/4 inches; for 9-gore skirt, 1 1/2 inches; for 11-gore skirt, 1 1/4 inches; for 13-gore skirt. 1 1/8 inches; for 15-gore skirt, 1 inch; for 17-gore skirt. 7/8 inch; for 19-gore skirt, 3/4 inch. These are the front widths to be used for misses' skirts. The front lengths for skirts should be followed according to the hip measurement; the back length should be followed the same as mentioned above. The proper space between front and back length measurements for a misses' skirt should be 3 inches. The seams for this skirt are not allowed. Seams should be allowed when tracing off this skirt separately.