Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/174

165 LESSON 90.

SHORT BOX COAT, SIZE SIXTEEN.

To begin all these drafts, use all measurements as the first draft for this size. The measurements from A to B. from A to C, from C to D, is the same as always for 16 size. In order to begin the box coat's action, divide from I to J, which makes N; take both sides of N, 3/4 inch, which makes 2 and 3; connect 3 to E, which is the box line and the hip line connected. Now raise up from E to 4, 1/2 inch, and curve from 4 lost to D; make the bottom of this back somewhat round for making the side line for the front part. Measure from E to V one-half for bust; from V to X is 3 inches; allow for seams. Draw the line down from X to 1, which is the hip line; measure from 1 to 5, 40 hip measurement on the two-thirds, which amounts to 13 3/8 inches. From 5 to 6 is 2 inches, which is allowed for fullness; connect 6 up to 2 for the side line and connect this side line of the front according to the back. The side seam shall be longer by 1/8 inch; as the back side measures from 1 to 8, it is 1 1/2 inches; connect with a curve from 6 to 8 on to 7. The buttons stand for this coat, which is from X to Y, and should be 1 1/2 to 2 inches. The pocket for this garment should be followed the same way as size 36, and some smaller following the size 16 or 34 chest. The lower pocket is always placed according to the front arm-hole line, which is from Q to F down to the pocket place. This line gives us the center of the pocket. The pocket shall be placed 2 inches below the waist line for this short garment. The size of the pocket shall be 1 inch less than one-third of the size. This amounts to 4 3/4 inches, and should be equally divided on both sides of the centre line, which is 17 and 18 for long coats. This pocket can be placed at least 3 inches below the waist line, and for long garments 6 inches below the waist line. This completes this diagram.