Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/170

161 LESSON 88.

MISSES' SIXTEEN SIZE FRENCH SEAM TIGHT-FITTING GARMENT.

The outlines for the misses' sizes are the same as the 36, only the numbers are changed regarding this size. The measurements for this size are as follows:

To draft, draw a line from A to W and from A to D; from A to B is 6 1/2 inches in depth, and from C to A is 15 inches natural waist length; from C to D is one-third of size for the hip length, or 5 3/4 inches; draw all lines from A to W, B to X, C to 1, D to XX; then measure from B to G and D to E two-thirds of chest measurement, which is 34, or 11 3/8 inches; cross a line up from E to G up to the top line; then take one-half of B to G, which makes H; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches. Draw a line up from I to J; from A to K is one-sixth of size from K to L, which is 1 inch always; cross a line from L against J to make N. then square a line to meet I; from G to F is one-sixth of the size; from Q to R is one-sixth of size; from R to O is one-sixth of the size; from R to W is one-sixth of the size, from D to 36 is one-twelfth of the size, or 1 1/3 inches; from C to DX is 1 7/8 inches; cross a line from 36 to DX, and from DX up to A; cross a line for the front shoulder from O to T; T is at the depth back point. Measure first the front shoulder before measuring the back shoulder from L to N, and place the same amount from O to U; from F to FX is one-twelfth of size; cross a line for the front armhole from U to FX. Allow for a seam from N to M 3/4 inch all the way down the back line. Divide from L to M, making 25, where the French seam will be placed. Now we begin to work the bottom from 36 to 7, which is one-sixth of the size, or 3 3/4 inches. From DX to 5 is 1 inch less, or 1 3/4 inches; cross a line from 7 to 5; from 5 to 35; from 10 to 7 is 3/4 inch; from 5 to 6 is 1 inch; cross a line from 10 to 6 and from 6 to 25; cross a line somewhat round to meet the straight line at the breast line; from G to 14 and from E to 13 is 3/4 inch; cross a line from 14 to 13; 15 is at the waist line; take one-half of G and 15, making 8; divide also from H to 14, makes 9; 9 to 35 is 1 inch up; cross a line down from 35, 9, 8 to 37; take out on both sides of 8 to 11 and 12, 3/4 inch, which is decreased on the waist line on both sides of 37 to 38 and 29 3/4 inch; cross lines from 11 to 29; from 12 to 28; from 11 up to 9 and 12 up to 9; from 15 to 16 is 1 inch; from 14 towards the front take out 1/4 inch; cross a line down to 16, as shown on diagram; from E to 31 is 1 inch; from 13 to 30 is also 1 inch; cross lines from 15 to 30, and from 16 to 31; measure one-half of bust from T to V, which is 37; from V to X allow 3 inches for seams; now square a line down from X to 23; from Z to 1 is one-twelfth of size; from Z to 3 is one-eighth of size; cross a line from V to X; from X to 1 down to 4; cross a line from 16 to 2 to 3 for the long waist line; begin to make the dart in front, then divide across the chest from F to X, making 23; measure from X to 23 and apply the same amount from 3 to 17; then take one-half of 17 and 23, making 37; from 17 to 18 is 1 inch; from 31 to 33 is 1 1/4 inches; from 17 to 19 is 3 inches; mark a line out from 18 to 20 and cross a straight line down from 20 to 24.