Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/165

Rh LESSON 86.

A SKIRT WITH SEAMS ALLOWED—DIAGRAM XX.

To cut a skirt with seams, we begin the outline as usual. Then draft the skirt with seams allowed. We have to decide the amount of gores wanted before we can complete the foundation of the skirt, as we need to allow the seams in making the foundation. Now commence to draft a 5-gore skirt. Draw a line as usual for the waist from A to C, which is half of waist measurements. From C to D is the usual 3 inches allowed for the dart; from D to E we allow 2 1/2 inches for five half seams; 1/3 inch is allowed for a half seam. Now draw a line up from E to F, 6 inches as usual. Connect a line from F to A as usual; measure parallel from A to G and from F to H 6 inches; draw a line from G to I, which makes the hip line; measure on line from the front, one-half of the hip line from G to H and from H to I; allow 2 1/2 inches for seams, or the same amount as you allowed on the waist. Draw the back line from F against I down to J and measure the back length as usual; measure from A to K the front width, which is 3 inches; the usual amount we use for this skirt is 2 1/2 inches. As this skirt is cut with seams, we allow 3 inches for the 5-gore skirt, or 1/2 inch more for the additional seam allowed. The bottom from B to P is twice as much from the top part as from A to K. Now divide the top from K to T, which makes L, and from P to J. which makes O as usual, and draw a line from L to O; take out both sides of K. the front and inside gores are 1/8 inch. Measure for the total amount of the waist of the skirt in order to see how much we have to take out for the dart. Measure from A and skip the 2/8 inch at K and measure from K to F; this will measure altogether about 18 1/2 inches; take off of this amount the waist, which is 12 1/2 inches, and the 2 1/2 inches which you have allowed for seams, which together is 15 inches taken from 18 1/2 inches; this will leave us 3 1/2 inches over-built at the waist, which should be taken out for the dart. Now take this amount out on both sides of L; to M and N is 1 3/4 inches to either side. Raise the amount by 1/4 inch up to M and N, as shown in the diagram, and curve the dart for about 6 inches below the waist line, as shown on the diagram. This completes the 5-gore skirt with seams allowed. All other gore skirts shall be followed according to the same outline, or allow so many half inches as there are gores to the skirt. The half inch is always sufficient for the half seam, or a full seam occupies 1 inch. A 9-gored skirt occupies 1/2 inches, or 4 1/2 inches each side. For the seams an 11-gore skirt occupies 11 1/2 inches, or 5 1/2 inches for seams. Use the same rule for a gored skirt with seams allowed.