Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/163

Rh LESSON 84.

THE STOUT SKIRT.

To begin the stout skirt be very careful to see the difference in measurements between the waist and the hip, and also the difference in length between the front and back, as the stout form greatly changes in measurement. The waist for stout is very large, according to the hip, as the hip measurements are very small. The measurements for this skirt are as follows: Waist, 30 inches; hip. 45 inches; front length. 44 inches; side length, 40 inches; back length, 39 inches.

To draft, draw a line from A to C and from A to H; from A to B is one-half of waist measurement; from B to C is 3 inches; from C to D is 3 inches, only, instead of having 6 inches from C to D, from A to E is the balance amount between C and D, which is 3 inches, in order to complete the stoutness in front for this skirt. Take one-half of A and E. making G, from G to F raise up 1 inch; cross lines from E to F and F to D; curve as shown on diagram; E and F to D; this is the waist line for this skirt; making the length for this skirt, E to H, 44 inches front length. We make the hip line, from A to K, 6 inches, and from D to M is also 6 inches, for hip space. Now make a curved line, K to M. and measure one-half of the hip from K to M down to R and measure from D to R, 39 inches for the back length. Begin the front from E to I, allowing 3 inches; from H to J. 6 inches; from I to J cross a line for the front. Begin to curve at I both sides; from I to O is 1/2 inch; from I to Q is also 1/2 inch; now make curves lost to V. To make this a 5-gore skirt we divide from Q to D, making N, and from J to R, makes P one-half of this space; cross a line from M to P, which will be the side seam for this skirt, and curve the bottom from H, J, P and R. Measure over your waist for the waist measurement wanted, then measure from E and O from Q to D, and see to it to take one-half of your waist measurement, and take whatever there is over-built on both sides of N; T and S is taken out the over-built from the waist measurement. These curves shall be lost from S and T to L; be careful to allow all seams as usual for skirts. This completes the stout skirt.

LESSON 85.

A VERY STOUT SKIRT.

Before we begin to draft this skirt we first shall see the different measurements, showing the reason why we call this a very stout skirt. The reason for this stoutness can be seen by looking carefully over the measurements. The measurements for this skirt are as follows: Waist. 36 inches; hip. 54 inches; front length. 40 inches; side length. 38 inches; back length, 36 inches.

You will see at the beginning by looking the measurements over carefully that these measurements show a very large stoutness; the noticeable part is where the length of skirts is greatly changed between the front and back. Begin to draw the outlines from A to C and A to H; from A to B is one-half of waist measurement, from B to C is 3 inches; from C to D is 1 1/2 inches. This is the place where the changes are greatly noticeable, as this skirt is raised up in front instead of in the back. Be careful to keep