Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/16

7 HOW TO FIND THE HEIGHT.

Having the total height of a figure measuring 5 feet 6 inches, we draw a straight hne of this length from A to B and one at right angles with its top, from A to C, which shall be one-half length of the first line. A to C is one-half of A and B. Now connect C to B by a line and make half of this, which is D. From the pivot, B by D, sweep the curved line to the straight line which gives E, just equal to the natural waist length, from head to hollow of the waist and again from the waist to the floor, which is called the length for skirt in front.

Let this sub-division continue and obtain other points. Now take one-third of the distance from A to E, this will make J. This is the head space which we do not cloth.

Now take one inch below J, which makes K. Now divide the space from K to E, which makes I. Raise up 3/4 of an inch to make L. The spaces from A to J is the head space, from J to K allow one inch for the collar stand. Regarding the natural waist length, we now take the space from K to E and half of this space makes I, from I to L is 3/4 of an inch. Now we can understand that from K to L is the depth of size, 7 inches; and from L to E is the side body length, which is 8 inches for this height.

From E to F draw a straight line and divide this space, which makes C. Now sweep from C to H; from E to H measures 10 inches for this height. This space is called the raise. This space or measurement is used for riding breeches, bloomer or divided riding skirts. From H to B measures 31 inches for this height. This space can be used for the inside length for riding pants, riding breeches and bloomers. M is half of H and B, N is 3 inches up from M. N is the natural point of the knee line.

Having the number for any height, we can understand and safely deviate any height for correcting forms by reducing the one height or increasing the other. The size remains the same.

Whatever the size of breast may be, the height is regulated by its own length, according to the divisions as given in this problem or the table elsewhere given in this work. When the height increases the length of natural waist, front and back depth all increases in the same ratio. The scale which I give includes the allowances needed in drafting. To make the system of proportions perfectly clear and easy to use for the student, I prepared a table of sizes which will assist in quickly obtaining the results of these measurements.

For childrens' and junior garments we shall follow a different method of dividing the height regarding the build of these two forms. The reason why these two bodies differ is that they do not wear any tight corsets and. therefore, the change is to be made between the socket bone and the waist line which calls for the back depth.

Regarding a correction for the space between the socket bone and waist line we shall divide the waist line as, for instance, at the waist line for junior size 15, which is 14 1/4 inches. We shall take 1/3 of this 14 1/4, which makes 7 1/8; and in order to get the back depth we shall take off 1/3 of an inch from 7 1/8, which will make 6 5/8 inches for the back depth. Now add 1/3 of an inch which you have taken off from 7 1/8 and add to the lower part of 7 1/S which will make the under arm length 7 5/8 inches.

For the children's sizes, for instance, take size 6; where the waist length is about 11 inches; now divide this 11 inches which will make 5 1/3 inches.