Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/157

Rh LESSON 78.

BLOOMERS.—FRONT PART.

This garment differ in all cases from the the other garments. The measures for this garment are taken differently from other garments. The measurements are as follows: Outside length, 42 inches; raised measurement, 10 inches; waist measurement, 24 inches; hip, 42 inches; knee, 13 inches.

Outside length measurement is taken from the natural waist line down to the bottom. The raise measurement is taken from the waist line opposite the full length of hip, which is about 10 inches. The waist and hip is taken as usual. Knee measurements should he taken tight around the knee. To draft draw lines for the front part of this garment, from A to R and from A to D; from A to B is 10 inches, raised, and from A to D is 42 inches outside length. Divide from B to D making Y; raised 2 inches up from Y makes C; then take one-third of C to D, which makes E; C is the natural knee line, and E is the changed knee line for the fullness or lap over which this garment needs. Draw all lines across and name all lines in order to know their usefulness. The line at A is the waist line; the line at B is the hip line; the line at C is the natural knee line, at E the increased knee line; the line at the bottom, D, is not used for this. Begin to work on the hip line, as this garment is mostly curved by the hip measurement. From B to H is 42 inches, hip measurement, on halves, or 10 1/2 inches; cross a line up H to R; from H to I is one-eighth of hip measurement, or 2 1/2 inches. Measure from R to O one-half of waist measurement, or 6 inches; from O to P is 2 inches; from P to Q is 1/2 inch, from R to X is also 1/2 inch; cross a line from X to Q. Divide B and I, making S; measure from B to S and place the same amount from E to W on the bottom line; cross a line from W up to L; this is the center line of the front part. Measure on the bottom line E on both sides of W on bottom halves or both of W 5 and 6 shall be one-eighth of the bottom, which is 13 inches, or one-half way. This will amount to 6 1/2 inches. Allow on both sides from 5 to F 1 inch; from 6 to G 1 inch for fullness. Measure from I inside to V 3/4 of an inch and cross a line down to T. Allow from B to U 1 inch. Begin to work the crutch of the front part, measuring from H to I and place the same from H to J; cross a line out to the side line; now divide J and I making M; cross from M to H with a short line; this line will be the notch in front. From M to N is 1/2 inch. Begin to curve from J and N to I; from I to T and from T to F; this completes the inside part of the front. Curve the outside part from Q to U, and down to C. This completes the front part.

LESSON 79.

BLOOMFRS.—BACK PART.

After the front part has been cut out, mark out the front part on another sheet of paper and cross all lines over from the hip and centre line as shown on diagram. From H to M and from K to N. When the front part is all marked out measure from I to H one-sixteenth of the hip measurement, and from H to M allow 1 inch at the bottom and on both sides 5 to F, and 6 to G allow 1 inch to either side; from B to U allow 2 inches; from L to K allow 4 1/2 inches up. Measure from L to A one-half of waist measurement, or 6 inches, and from A to P allow 3 inches. Be careful to cross a line