Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/152

143 LESSON 75.

DIVIDED RIDING SKIRT.

To begin this skirt we draw lines as usual: from A to C is 12 1/2 inches, or one-half of waist measurement; from C to D is 3 inches; from D to E is 6 inches; from A to B is 41 inches, front length; cross a line from A to E, one-half of A and E is H; from H to J is 1 inch; curve from A to J to E; J is one-half of A and E; measure from your waist and see the over-built, and whatever is over-built from 12 1/2 inches should be taken out on both sides of J, which makes R and T. This is the dart running down on the hip line or side seam for this skirt. Begin to work the raise, from A to I, which is 10 inches; this space shall be measured from the waist line down below the hip. The proper way to get this measurement is to have your client seated in a chair and take her measurement from the waist line down to the seat, which will always give about 10 inches for the majority of heights. From I to K cross out a line and measure one-eighth of the hip measurement, from B to M is also one-eighth of hip measurement, and 1 inch is allowed; cross a line from K to M and shape from A to G to K, as shown on diagram. This completes the front part of this skirt. To begin the back part measure from K to M and apply the same amount from L to O up, cross a line from O to P one-sixth of hip measurement, and from L to O. which is the bottom of the skirt; measure one-sixth of the hip and allow 1 more inch; cross a line from O to P, which is the outline for the back part of this skirt, then curve from E to F to P, as shown on the diagram. This completes the back part of the skirt. When cutting out this skirt allow all seams. This skirt is closed in front and back, the opening takes place on the sides, as shown on the diagram from R to 1, and from T to 2 the allowance shall be made on both sides of the hip, as shown with a traced line on this diagram. The bottom of the skirt shall remain as drafted, no increase whatever being necessary. The regular width of this skirt shall be about three (3) yards on the bottom when complete. This completes the divided riding skirt.