Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/150

141 LESSON 74.

PRINCESS SKIRT.

To begin the princess skirt we first cut out one of our tight-fitting skirts, which do not carry too many gores, or very few gores. Suitable gore skirts for this style are 9. 11 and 13-gore skirts. Now suppose we use a 9 gore skirt and we shape the waist darts on both sides equally and then cut out a complete 9-gore skirt. Mark out every gore separately, carefully separating one from the other; on all these gores mark the hip length for all gores on both sides which is 6 inches from top of waist down, We first mark out the front gore. No. 1, as shown. Bear in mind that the front has no seam at the outside of front; from A to F is 6 inches, which is the hip length; D is the inside part of front and top of waist; cross a line from F to D up to G; from A to E is also 6 inches; raised up for the princess effect; cross a line from E to G, which is the top of the princess allowance. For the inside gores we measure from the top of the waist part from A and D down to the hip length F and H, which is 6 inches from the waist down; cross a line from F to H and take one-half; cross lines from half up to A,E and D to G, this increases the princess effect at E and G; cross lines from E and G and follow the same instructions for number of gores as follows: 2, 3, 4 and 5; the fifth gore is the back part of this skirt; at this gore we make some changes as follows: the hip space from the waist down are marked as usual, the same as the others; now take one-half of F and H, which makes I; cross a line up from I to A and E as usual and the outline towards the back will be changed by running it from F and D up to G. The back part of the form is greatly changed, as any other part of the figure which makes it a very strong increase, towards the back. This completes the back part of this skirt. When all these outlines have been made to all gores we measure over the spaces on top of each gore. Now suppose this will amount to about 26 inches; measure the size of the form that you are cutting this skirt from, about 6 inches up from the waist. For size 36 this measure will amount to 36 inches, or 18 inches of one-half of this, be careful to keep in mind that you have measured this skirt one-half way only, and therefore take one-half of the measurement that you have measured on the figure. Suppose your measurement is 36 inches, take one-half of this, which is 18 inches; take off your measurement, which is 18 inches, from 26 inches, which your skirt measures on top, or 6 inches above the waist; see that your over-built between 18 and 26 is 8 inches; this 8 inches is equally divided on both sides to all gores at E and G; at the front we shall only take off the outside part at G. Now curve all these spaces lest down to the waist and allow seams all the way down both sides of gores, except the front. For the front we only allow the seam at the inside part from G and D to C; for the inside part allow the seams on both sides; E, A, F, B and G, D to C; for the back pleat of this skirt allow from D, which is the waist line, drawn to the bottom at C. This completes the princess skirt.