Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/15

Rh THE MEASURE OF A WOMAN BY PROPORTION.

No table of proportions that I have yet seen in print gives an established and perfect form for obtaining divisions and sub-divisions of either height or circumference measures and none of them, therefore, can be relied upon to secure satisfactory results.

Some years ago the fact was deeply impressed on my mind that a correct system of proportions of the human form, applicable to every shape, normal, stooping or erect, was greatly needed by the trade.

This impression induced me to some principles that should be sound in theory, on which to construct such a system that should completely fulfill the requirements of proportionate and disproportionate forms with equal exactness.

My investigations were commenced on the supposition that the average height of woman is five feet six inches, and my calculations were made to harmonize with this.

The resulting scale of proportions radiates from this height, modified and corrected by proportions of bulk, is thoroughly illustrated and explained in these pages. The scale is automatic, and every size of any height required can be found. To illustrate how the sizes and proportions of the body are obtained, I submit the following problem:

A RULE OF PROPORTIONS.

The rule of proportions already explained will be found to be equally applicable to the female figure and serves well to bring out the many peculiarities of the form. The height of the body is divided into three principal parts; the first part is the head space, from the top of the head to the socket-bone. The second part is the natural waist length in back, from socket-bone to the hollow of the waist. The third part is the skirt length in front, from natural waist to the ground.

In a lecture on proportions I expressed these views, and also proceeded to sketch an outline of a system of measurements on the several positions for the human form, which measurements might be so combined that the total height as well as other details should be the outcome and not the basis of the method employed.

The rule of proportions to be immediately fully described and illustrated is founded on such a plan. The standing height of the female figure is five feet six inches, or sixty-six inches, and includes the length or space of head. We first take off 1/8 of the height, which is 8 1/4 inches for this height, and the balance of this is left for the indication of clothing.

The total height is divided into eight units. These units are planted to simplified purposes. One unit covers the head space. Two units cover the waist length and five units cover the length of skirt in front.