Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/142

133 LESSON 69.

EMPIRE, OR GIRDLE, SKIRT.

For the Empire Skirt begin outlines as usual; draw a line from A to B and A to D; from A to C is one-half of waist measurement, which is 13 1/2 inches; from C to D is 3 inches; from D to E is 6 inches. Cross a line from A to E and take one-half, which makes H, from H to J is 1 1/2 inches deep; curve from A to J and E; draw a line for the hip, from A to W which is 6 inches and from E and F is also 6 inches; cross a line from G to F and measure on this line one-half of hip measurement; make a line in front from A to B which is 41 inches; draw lines from E and F down to L, and make 45 inches back length; measure from J to M 43 inches, which is side length, and make curve at the bottom from B and M to L; divide A and E which makes J; divide also B and L, making M; draw a line up from M and J to H; raise for the Empire effect from A to K; from J to H and from E to P 3 inches; curve K and H to P with the same curved roundness as A and J to E. Measure the waist on the curved line from A and J to E, and correct one-half of waist whatever is over-built from one-half of the waist, which is 13 1/2 inches, which shall be divided on both sides of J to N and O; draw lines up to H from O and N. Then curve from O and N, as shown on diagram to fill in the break, so to make this waist half-fitting. The increase from E to P at the back part of the skirt for the Empire effect should be raised up with a straight line from D up to P; curve as shown on diagram from P to F. This completes the Empire Skirt, cut in four parts. This skirt can also be cut in five gores. Follow the same instructions as for this diagram.

LESSON 70.

HOW TO MAKE A GIRDLE BELT.

Draw lines from A to C and from A to B; from A to B is 6 inches; from A to C is one-half of waist; from C to D is 6 inches up; now measure the space from A to C, and place the same amount from D to E, and draw a line; measure the space between A and E, and place one-half of this amount from B to K, and draw a line from K to E; from F to H is 1 1/2 inches deep; now curve from E, H and D; from F to I is the same space as from F to H; curve also from E and I to D; from D to J is about 3 inches; from E to L is 3 inches; curve from L and G to J; from E to O and from I to N; from D to M is 2 inches; curve as shown on diagram. When cutting out this belt measure both sides, top and bottom part, from E, H and D, from E, I and D to have one-half of waist measurement and allow seams to both sides.