Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/132

123 LESSON 64.

FIVE-GORE SKIRT.

To begin lesson No. 2 we shall decide on how many gores this skirt shall be cut. Now suppose you want a 5-gore skirt. Make the front suitable for a 5-gore skirt, which is 2 1/2 inches on the top waist line from A to I; on the bottom line fom in B to K is the double amount of A to I. This shall always be kept in mind— that the bottom of the front should measure twice as much as the top of the front. Now measure the hip length from J to M and make the bottom circle from B, K, M to L; now divide on waist line from I to E for a side dart and seam, which makes this skirt a 5-gore; also divide the bottom curve from K to L, making M; now cross a line from J to M, which completes the seam line at the side. Commence to work on the waist line for proper measurements. At I take 1/8 inch on both sides and curve down to the hip line; after being complete with the curve at the front, measure over the waist, from A, I, J to E; this will amount to 16 1/2 inches. Now take off 12 1/2 inches for a 25 waist measurement from 16 1/2 inches leaves the amount over of 4 inches, which we do not want. Divide this amount, of 4 inches, on both sides of J, from J to O and from J to N,; curve from O to X and N to V down to the hip line. Be careful to make this curve lost right below the hip line with the round curve on the straight line; before cutting out this draft raise a small amount up at O and N so as to straighten out the curve at the waist line when the skirt is seven up. This draft is not giving any seams allowed for the simple reason that we have not allowed for seams is that the system for all gored skirts remains the same, as it is much simpler to allow seams to as many gores as you want. For seams allowed on skirts, I have also prepared an outline how to draft the skirt pattern with seams. This lesson is shown at the end of the skirt lessons. For changing width of bottom for the skirts, also see the end of the skirt lessons.