Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/130

121 LESSON 63.

The skirts are drafted according to waist and hip measurements, length for skirts can be changed at any time. Before commencing to draft the skirt outline we have to decide first about how many gores this skirt should be divided and also what the width for the front shall be for every gored skirts. Now the width for the front gores shall be carefully decided before commencing to draft the outlines for skirts as the front gore for all skirts shall be 1/2 of the width of either gore, the width for the front gores are as follows:—

Five gore skirts shall be, front 2-1/2 inches,

Seven gore skirt shall be, front 2-1 4 inches

EineNine [sic] gore skirt, shall be, front 2 inches,

Eleven gore skirt, shall be, front. 1-2/2 inches,

Thirteen gore skirt, shall be, front, 1-3/8 inches,

Fifteen gore skirt, shall be, front, 1-1/4 inches,

Seventeen gore skirt, shall be, front, 1-1/8 inches,

Nineteen gore skirt, shall be, front. 1 inch.

The 19 gore skin shall be the very last and most to be cut in gores, for anymore gores than 19 the pleating must be made. Now we commence to draft, the measurements for this skirt are as follows:Waist 35 inches.

Hip, 43 inches.

Front length 41 inches,

Side length 43 inches.

Back length 45 inches.

To begin to draft draw a line from A to B and A to D, from A to C is ½ of 25 inches for waist measurement, from C to D is 3 inches tor the hip increase, now,square a line up from D to E. from D to E is 6 inches, now cross a line from E to A, now take 1/2. of A to E makes H, from H to J is 1 inch, now cross from J to E. this curve is the natural line for the waist, now measure from A to G and from E to F 6 inches and cross a line from G to F, now measure 1/5 of the hip from G to F which is 43 inches hip measurement or 1/2 of this 21-1/3 inches, now cross a line from E against F down to L now measuree the length in front, from A to B is 11 inches, and from E. to L is the back length 45 inches. For further instructions see the next lesson.