Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/125

Rh Lesson 59

make changes as follows, from J to K is 1 inch decreased for fulness of the top sleeve, and from L to M is 1 inch encreasedincreased [sic] for the under sleeve, this completes the curve for the sleeve on top, now look over carefully the sleeves after the top and under sleeves are connected as the sleeve is now marked out, it is useful with a dart on the outside elbow as shown from D to X and from I to X.

For a tight fitting one piece sleeve, cross a line from the bottom of the inside sleeve lengths from B to H, now cross a line from E to F down to N and measure the size of cuff both sides of N, the cuff shall measure 1/4 of the size or 9 inches for a 36 size, allow 1 more inch to the width of cuff for seams makes 10 inches for this cuff, now make from N to O 5 inches, also from N to P, this makes a straight cuff from O to P when a lap-over is wanted on the top sleeve. Divide N and O makes Q, from Q to R is 2 inches. Now curve O to R, from R to P, shape both sides the inside length of the sleeve, from T to U is 1/2 of an inch, and from S to V is also 1/2 of an inch, curve as shown on the diagram, from A, V, to O and from G, U, to P, this completes the two kinds of sleeves useful for all kinds of garments. To cut out the dart sleeve follow A, S, B, D, X, I, H, T, G, M, K to A.

To cut out the tight fitting sleeve follow, A, V, O, R, P, U, G, M, K to A.