Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/115

Rh Lesson 49

Lesson 50

THE STORM COLLAR

LESSON 50.

This collar is increased the same way as the lap over collar, this collar changes on the over built width, when making line on the bottom which is from D to N we first make from B to C the regular width of collar which is 3 inches and draw a line from D against C to make N in order to have the right over built or big spring which is needed in order to fit this collar perfectly. Now cross the width from I to H and from F to J and F to L, the width of this collar shall be about 5 inches, from F to K is always the same as the width of collar as to connect a line to I in order to meet L as usual, when all these outlines are complete as usual, stand from D, E and F to G shall be over built with a 1/2 inch height. This collar shall be cut in 4 gores, to be made at H and Q. H is the top part of the collar from H to O and from H to P we allow 3/4 of an inch on both sides on the bottom at Q on both sides of S and R, we allow 1/4 of an inch, now draw lines from P, to I, R, from O to X to S, now cure as shown on diagram, P, I, R, O, X, S, the back part from E, D, C to N, the front from J, L, F to G, when cutting out this collar trace the back part from N, M, M, O, X, S, E, D, C to N, this is the back part of the front from P, I, R, F, L, J to P, when this collar is complete, allow seams at P, I to R, O, X to S.