Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/110

101 THE HOOD.

LESSON 45.

To begin the hood we make use of the front and back upper parts from a box coat. To begin we mark out the back from A, B, C, D. Now comes the front shoulder seam at E, F, and mark out the neck from E to K for the front part. This is shown on number 1. Now see No. 2. Now divide the front neck from K to E makes I, from I to J is 1 inch. Now curve from J to the width of shoulder at F and D.

Now before making a further curve we make the length of this hood from A to B is 12 inches the same is from B to G now make a square line up from G to H. now square out the shoulder line from E, C, F and D to H, now finish the curve from J, F and D down to G, from G to L is 1/3 of G to B. Now make the round curve from L to H, this part appears at the neck part when the collars is all complete. After completing this collar see No. 2. When the collar is all cut out it is followed up as shown on the diagram, from A to B is the length in back, or from the neck down on the back which makes a point at B, fold from L by B and H as shown on the fold L to L, the connection of the neck part is from A, I, J, the curved line from J to H lays over the shoulder when I to A is buttoned to the neck part of this hood when cutting this hood place to a fould [sic] the bottom part of this hodd from B to L in order to have it seamless when folded from B to L, the seams cannot be seen. This completes the hood.

THE SAILOR COLLAR

LESSON. 46.

To begin the sailor collar mark out the front and back part of shirtwaist, we first mark out the back part which is shown on the diagram, from A to B, C, D and W, from A to B will be the length of the sailor collar in the back, this space is the length of the depth measure, this shall be the proper length for the sailor collar, this length can also be changed in case of style wanted. Now connect the front part at htethe [sic] shoulder and the back, the shoulder at G to D and F to E by placing these to each other lap over 3/8 of an inch one to another in order to have the right size for neck. Before placing the front to this shoulder connection, mark the opening of the sailor collar from H to J, now cross a line from G to J for the sailor collar and allow from J to I 1 inch to make the collar 1 inch longer so as to allow all-seams necessary, from I to M is always 1 inch, this is also for seams allowance to be used for seams on both sides of this collar, now cross a line from M to the width of shoulder at E and F. now curve the line down from E and F to cross line at the back from B to C to meet N which makes the width of the collar at the back, now curve as shown on the diagram for the regular shape of the sailor collar from A, B, X, E, F, M, I, J, up to G, D and A, this completes the Sailor Collar.

Should we want a round effect sailor collar at the back part, curve as shown from F, E to B this is shown on the diagram with a traced line. This completes the sailor collar.