Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/101

Rh HOW TO DRAFT ALL KINDS OF SIZES

LESSON 42.

To draft all kind of sizes, we only need to look over the table of proportions in order to get the measurements for the depth and natural waist length for the size wanted, after having the depth and waist length we begin the draft as usual. Now suppose we want to draft a size 40 tight fitting jacket, we first look on the proportional table for the size number 40, bust 43, waist 27, hip 45, depth 7 1/4 inches, natural waist length 15 3/4 inches, inside sleeve length 19 inches. In drafting we first use the depth and natural waist length and after we use the size number as usual, for this size we use 40. To begin draw lines as shown on the diagram, from A to B is 7 1/4 inches depth, from A to C is 15 3/4 natural waist length and from C to D is 6 inches hip space always. Now cross all lines as usual, from B to G and from D to E is 2/3rds of size or 13 3/8 inches, now take half of B to G makes H, from H to I is 1 1/4 inches, now cross a line up from I to J, from A to K is 1/6 of size or 3 3/8 inches for this size, from K to L is always 1 inch, now draw a line for shoulder, from L to J M and square down a line to I,from D to S is always 1-1/2 inches, from C to Q is 2 inches, this part of garment is not changeable for womens garment;, from S to Z is 1/6 of size or 3-3/8 inches, from Q to R is 1 inch less than from S to Z, or 2-3/8 inches, now cross lints from Z to R and from R to H, now divide from I to J makes N, cross a line from N to O, now curve the body, from Z to Y is 3/4 of an inch, from R to 4 is 1 inch. Now cross lines from Y to 4, from 4 to H and shape from O to H and 4, from to P is a 1/2 inch up and 3/8 of an inch allowed for a seam. Now allow from G to 1 and E to 2, 3/4 of an inch and draw a line from 1 to 2, 3 is on the waist line, now take half of 3 and