Page:The perfect dressmaking system (1914).djvu/8

 Before taking the measure a line should be placed straight across the chest at the junction of the neck. One down center front from the junction of the neck to waist line. One down center of shoulder, and one from directly under the arm to waist line. One down center of back, and one straight across the back about four inches below the neck.

The beginner should cut patterns from paper until they thoroughly understand the system before cutting a garment. So in case of any mistakes they can be easily rectified without wasting material.

In cutting the waist front, take a paper about twenty-five inches long and twenty inches wide, draw a line straight across this about four inches from top. See 2 to 4. Fig. 1.

In cutting the back, take a paper about twenty inches wide and twenty-one inches long. Draw a line straight across this about six inches from top. See 2 to 4. Fig. 2.

Watch the form and diagram in drafting patterns.

It is much easier to just dot and number your measures on paper until you have taken all the necessary measurements, and then cut from dot to dot.

All measurements should be taken just as the garment is wanted to fit; if some parts are wanted loose and others tight, the measures must be taken that way.


 * 1) Neck.—The depth is taken from the straight line at the shoulder to straight line at junction of neck 2 to 2. Width of neck is taken on straight line at junction of neck 1 to 1. But must be placed at top of neck and curved to center front line.
 * 2) Shoulder.—From neck at 1 to shoulder point at 3 gives the shoulder length, and from 4 to 4 gives shoulder drop.
 * 3) Armeye.—The depth of the armeye should be taken just as low as desired, not leaving anything to trim out 4 to 5.
 * 4) Width of Front.—This is taken from center front line to line under the arm 6 to 6. This should come as high up as depth of armseye. Cut straight in half the distance from 4 to 6 and gradually curve up to 4.
 * 5) Width of Front at Waist Line.—This is taken from center front to line at under arm at 7 to 8. If unlined waist is desired 3 inches should be added to this measure to give fullness at waist line, or 4 inches for dart in lining.
 * 6) Length of Front.—From the junction of the neck at 2 to Waist line at 7.