Page:The perfect dressmaking system (1914).djvu/22

 If the waist is to be opened in the back the front should be layed on the double fold of material. See Fig. 9. The back may be laid on the double fold of material, leaving the seam in front.

2. Place the measure loosely around the full part of the arm, half of this measure should come on each side of the back and front 1 to 1. The sleeve length should be taken from the shoulder point to desired length. If short sleeves are to be used they should not be tapered to the bottom 2 to 2. If long sleeves are desired they should be tapered from 1 to 1 to hand measure at sleeve length 3 to 3.

Diagram 1. Collars.—Pin the waist pattern together at the shoulder line. Then place the center back on the double fold of material. If a yoke is to be used in the front, mark the pattern the shape and depth of yoke desired. (See diagram.) Cut around the shape of neck in back and yoke in front. If no yoke is used, cut all around the shape of the neck. The collar may then be cut any shape or size. If square collar is to be used, as in diagram 1, lines 2 and 2 must come at the same point on armeye.

Diagram 2. Yokes.—Round or V shaped necks should be the same depth from the neck in the front and back 1 and 1, and any desired width on the shoulder, excepting around neck, which should be the same width from the neck as the front and back depth. Mark on the pattern the size and style yoke desired. If the waist is to be opened in the back, the pattern should be pinned together at the shoulder and the center of the front laid on the double fold, then trace around the yoke and cut out in the neck and down the back. If the waist is to open on the side or in the front the back will have to be cut on the double fold of material also, which will require seams on the shoulder. Square yoke depths should be the same as in other yokes and the shoulder width not wider than the depth. A square yoke should be 1½ inches narrower at the bottom than at the shoulder line. See yoke in diagrams 3 and 4,

Diagrams 3 and 4. Gibsons or Other Tucks.—If a gibson tuck is to be used a straight line should be placed from the point of the shoulder to the waist line so it follows the shape of the armeye to the curve. In the back the line should be the same distance from the underarm seam as at the arm. If the tuck is not to be used as a gibson, it must be put in a seam from the shoulder.