Page:The perfect dressmaking system (1914).djvu/13

 # Bottom of Sleeve.—This measure should be taken loose over the largest part of the hand so the sleeve can be easily slipped on. Half of the hand, measure plus one is placed on the left side and half minus one inch is placed on the right side of center measure at bottom of sleeve length 3 to 3.
 * 1) Sleeve Shape.—Dot from measure at line 3 to largest part of arm measure 1 to 1. Fig. 3.If full sleeve is desired the fullness should be added to the arm and hand size. 1 to 1 and 3 to 3.

The beginner should cut patterns from paper until they thoroughly understand the system. When taking the skirt measures the waist measure should be taken snug. The hip measure is taken seven inches below the waist line, and should be taken easy, but not loose. The front, side and back measures are taken from the waist line to the floor. This is to get the shape. Then if the skirt is to be shorter than the floor length it can be subtracted from the floor length.

For practice use a five gored skirt in the following measures: 25 waist, 40 hips, 38 front, 39 side and 39½ inch back skirt length, and 2¼ yards around the bottom.

Five Gored Skirt.—Divide the waist measure and hip measure into five equal parts (for gores). You then have 5 inches at the waist line and 8 inches at the hip line for each gore. The front gore which is twice the width of the top at the bottom, or 10 inches, leaves 17½ inches for each of the other four gores.

As each gore is cut double, you just have three pieces in a five gored skirt pattern. See Fig. 4.

As the skirt measure is 1½ inches longer in the back than the front, each gore must be ½ inch higher at the back than at the front. See Fig. 4. The difference in skirt lengths from front to back must be made at the top, never at the bottom.

1. Front Gore.——Fold paper in center for front gore, half of the gore measure is used for the front, as it is cut on the double fold. Measure back 2½ inches at waist, and up ½ an