Page:The perfect dressmaking system (1914).djvu/11

 # Neck.—Measure up center from line across the back 2 to 2. Then the width from center back to line on shoulder, and from straight line up to shoulder on neck 1 to 1.
 * 1) Shoulder.—Use the measure for shoulder length that was taken for the front measure, and measure up from 4 to 4 for shoulder drop.
 * 2) Armeye.—The depth of the armeye should be taken just as desired, not leaving anything to trim out. 4 to 5.
 * 3) Width of Back.—This is taken from center back line to line under arm 6 to 6. This should come as high up as depth of armeye. Cut straight in half the distance from 4 to 6, and then gradually curve up to 4.
 * 4) Width of Back at Waist Line.—This is taken from center back to line at under arm 7 to 8. If unlined waist is desired 2 inches should be added to this measure to give fullness at waist line.
 * 5) Length of Back.—From junction of neck at 2 to waist line at 7.
 * 6)  Sleeve.—To give comfort and a good fit to the sleeve it must be cut to fit into the waist as well as fit the arm. Take a paper about twenty-eight inches long and twenty inches wide. Draw a straight line down the center and one across eight inches from the top 1 to 1. 
 * 7) Measure Around Arm.—Place the tape line loosely close up under the arm 1 to 1. (See Fig. 3.) Half of the measure should be placed on each side of straight line (down the center).
 * 8) Top Shape of Sleeve.—Pin the front and back pattern together at underarm, then place it at the lowest part of curve in the front on paper at right side of measure and on line 1. Then cut the same shape as armeye of waist up to 4 in back. Then unpin the waist pattern and place the front (pattern) at the lowest part of curve on paper at left side of measures and on line 1. This is not placed straight as for the right side, but is placed so the lower part of pattern is brought back about two inches. Cut like the pattern to top of curve, then remove front pattern.
 * 9) Height of Sleeve.—Measure up center of arm from line around arm to point of shoulder, or to where the shoulder length was taken, then mark this measure up from straight