Page:The perfect dress fitter ... Complete instructions in the art of cutting all kinds of garments (IA perfectdressfitt00bear).pdf/8



The scroll has a large and a small end. The large end is used in making the curves on Ladies and Gentlemen's garments, and the small end for making the curves on Children's garments.

We have two hands upon the scroll. And we also have hands upon our diagrams to simplify its use.

Whatever way the hand upon the dia- gram points, let the hand upon the scroll point in the same direction. If the curve is an inward curve the hand will be placed upon the outside of the line to be drawn, and in laying the scroll on to connect the points and make the line you must also place it mpon the outside of the points you are connecting, being careful that the hands on the diagram and the hand on the scroll point in the same direction. If there is simply a hand connect two points at one time. If the hand has a star upon the wrist connect three points. When the curve to be made is an outward curve, the hand will occur inside of the draft, and in laying down the curve to form the line you must also have it inside of the points to be connected and the hands on the scroll and on the diagram must be pointing in the same direction.

such as Front neck Curve, Arms Eye Curve. Darts, Front hem Curve, Side under arm on front and Side back curve are marked on the scroll so that it can be applied with ease. Where lines occur without any hands (except it be the special curves just explained) they are straight lines and must be connected with the square.

Seams are of different widths, some are marked with the rule and some are marked with the tape line. But each diagram has the amount printed upon it that is allowed for seams wherever seams are to be taken. All seams that are made with the rule are laid off when you are first making the draft, excepting the shoulder seams, which are all marked on the diagram telling you just what letter to measure to for width of seam. When all seams are marked off connect the points with the tools in the same manner that you did the outline, being careful to keep the seam the same width apart at all places. When drafts are all completed and seams marked off, then follow directions for changing size of waist (if any change is necessary). Forms of the same chest measure vary in size of waist same as in length of waist and can only be correctly made by the tape-line.