Page:The perfect dress fitter ... Complete instructions in the art of cutting all kinds of garments (IA perfectdressfitt00bear).pdf/14



Two ladies of the same chest measurement may vary insize of waist, L. of waist, L. of arm, etc.

We will suppose, for instance, the measures had been:


 * Chest 34,
 * Waist 24½
 * L. of Wrist 17.
 * Elbow 20,
 * L. of Arm 30.

By adding the one inch for seams to last two measures it makes them 21 elbow and 31 L. of arm.

In that case we would have to lengthen waist line five-eighths of an inch in place of shortening it. Which is done in the same manner as to shorten it, only you move your waist line point down in place of up. If waist line is lengthened, you must also lengthen point 4E one-half as much as you do waist line.

When you came to front, yon must also lengthen the waist line the same amount as you do on backs and the top of darts one-half as much as you do waist line and always in the same direction,

On size of waist, if the measure had been 24½. we want the one-half of pattern to measure 12¼, or one-half inch longer, as one-half of the pattern did measure 11¾ inches. To make the change move the two points 4D and E one-half inch closer together, moving each point in one-fourth of an inch, which would throw in one-half inch more goods at waist line, ¼ original measure and one-half would be 12¼. The measure we want, twice 12¼ would be 24½, the waist measure we are drafting to.

If elbow measure had been 21 and the length of arm 31, it would have been necessary to lengthen elbow point three-eighths of an inch, and L. of arm one-half an inch, is original rule points would not have been long enough.

Always remember in shortening or lengthening elbow point I, you must shorten or lengthen (as the case may be) point 1D the same amount and where point 4 bottom of sleeve is lengthened or shortened you must always lengthen or shorten paint 3G the same amount. When you come to under sleeve portion lengthen or shorten, as the case may require, elbow point E and the 5V, and also points 3G and 5B the same amount that you do the same points on upper sleeve, and in the same direction.

Under each garment will be given the necessary measures for laying it off, all points that may require changes and all directions necessary. Read them carefully before attempting to draft the garment.

The garments do not generally need changing; but in ease they do, to ft them to tape measurement, we give all points on all garments that may have to be changed.

Are so designed that any one wishing to use a plain back and French bias front can use back and side, back of No. 1 and front of No.2. Or if one wishes to reverse and use the backs of No. 2 and plain front of No. 1 they can do so. Any sleeve desired may be cut with any draft.

Show just what amount of the diagram is made up into the garment, or in other words, represents the cloth.