Page:The perfect dress fitter ... Complete instructions in the art of cutting all kinds of garments (IA perfectdressfitt00bear).pdf/12



There are two fronts and two each of the back pieces, so we have one-half of the pattern.

Having but one-half of the pattern, to correct for size of waist (if any correction be necessary) we take one-half of the actual waist measure which with the waist measure (23) we are drafting to would be 11½ inches. By measuring the goods across the pattern on waist line, leaving out all seams, hems and darts, we find it measures 11¾, inches, which is too large, as we only want the measure to be 11½ inches or one-fourth of an inch smaller, Now, to make it one-fourth of an inch smaller we simply move points 4D and E on waist line, which form the large or under arm dart, one-fourth of an inch apart.

Move point E one-eighth of an inch or one-half the amount of the change and point 4D one-eighth of an inch, which makes one-fourth of an inch, By moving apart the two points one-half the amount of change required on each side, it keeps the garment in proportion, wherein if if were all changed on one side it would throw the garment all out of shape. Now draw your lines for under arm dart and your diagram is completed,

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Lay off sleeve same plan as on backs and front, marking all points down to the bottom of base line. Then to get proper length of sleeve measure, on back from seam lie at top of neck at center of back to seam line point at shoulder point at arm's eye. We find the ensure to be 7¼ inches. Now place the 7¼ at the top of base line or top of sleeve and make a point at 20½ inches down on base line, which is elhow measnre, and then at 30, which is length of arm measure. Point E being elbow point, we next measure the differ- ence between elbow point just marked and original elbow point E and find it to be one- eighth of an inch. The original elbow point would be one-eighth of an inch too long, consequently we shorten the elbow point one-eighth of an inch. When elbow point is shortened we must also shorten pont 1D the same amount. Then when we come to length of arm by measuring the difference between point 30, marked with tape line and point 4, which is length of arm point marked with rule, we find the difference to be one-half of an inch. So we must shorten the bottom point one- half an inch, Whenever bottom point is shortened we must also shorten point 3G the same amount.

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