Page:The national garment cutter book of diagrams. Goldsberry & Doran, proprietors .. (IA nationalgarment00gold).pdf/42



Use scale corresponding with bust measure.

Is in eight pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, Under-arm Gore, Vest, Collar, and two Sleeve portions.

The vest is sewed in the first dart and in the shoulder seam, and can be made of velvet or any contrasting color.

The sleeves can be finished at the hand with a small round cuff of the same material as the vest, with very pleasing effect.

Is drafted by the waist measure, and is in four pieces: Front, Right and Left Sides, and Back Drapery.

The front is made of the same material as the vest and cuffs.

The left side consists of two double box plaits.

The right side has five side plaits turning toward the front, as shown on draft.

The straps across the front are 3½ inches wide.

The lower one is 7 inches long, and the upper one is 5½ inches long; cut the remaining four to correspond, and fasten on front of skirt, as shown by the figure.

First make a foundation skirt (cut from the plain skirt pattern). Press the plaits carefully, tack with tape underneath, to stay the plaits, and fasten to foundation skirt at the waist with a band; finish bottom of foundation skirt with knife plaiting 3 inches wide.

The back drapery is laid in five plaits turning toward center of back; drape up to make bottom even.