Page:The journal of the Royal Geographic Society of London. Volume 34, 1864. (IA s572id13663720).pdf/256

52 It was now time for returning to Kashmir, our route being through Punzul to the Alumpi La, and our party had to be divided, owing to the difficulties of the road. The first day I reached the small summer huts of the shepherds, called Matuntoro Klas. I was much surprised to meet with a few scattered trees of Pinus excelsa, but heard that they were also to be found in most of the shady ravines of the watershed between the Indus and Shigar rivers. I here lost three days owing to the badness of the weather, and on the morning of the 18th marched by a zigzag course up a steep slope to the pass, from the top of which there is a fine view of the mountains towards the Braldoh; the Karakorām in the extreme distance overtopping all. Trans-Indus 2, opposite, looked very fine. The last few days rain had given all the higher peaks fresh coatings of snow. Very little could be seen to the south or west, so shut in were we on those sides by high spurs. A good but steep descent took us down to Pakora Klas (klas is a summer hut). Our way thence was through a narrow gorge of limestone (the bedding on either side being quite perpendicular), and, following the left bank of a small stream, we reached the first village (Hŭrimŭl) on the Tormik River, a considerable body of water coming from the westward, flowing through a cultivated, fairly wooded, and cheerful valley, with grassy spurs running down into it from the mountains above. I followed the left bank of the Tormik, crossing several small tributary streams joining it from the north. The villagers all along were busy cutting grass, or wheat, or threshing it out with bullocks: it was a cheerful and lively scene, which I appreciated the more from the bleak and wild features amongst which I had of late lived.

The next morning looked unpromising for alpine work. I started, however, hoping to make the passage of the Stok La, which I was anxious to cross. Our way lay along the left bank of the Tormik, and was good and grassy. Near the first large ravine from the north, called Tserbrum, there was a hot spring like that of Chŭtrun, clear, tasteless, and without smell. Its temperature was only 98°. On reaching the foot of the pass, clouds and snow compelled me to return. The Tormik River has its sources in several small glaciers, and as the survey of the valley was complete, there was no necessity for remaining. We reached towards evening the small but prettily-wooded village of Kŭshipa, down the Tormik valley.

On the 20th I proceeded towards the junction of the Tormik with the Indus. We were obliged to camp on the ascent in the midst of falling snow, and the next morning mounted the remaining portion, before the sun rose from behind the mountains to the north of the Indus. On gaining the highest point there was a glorious view of the peaks covered with fresh snow. To the southward, and