Page:The family kitchen gardener - containing plain and accurate descriptions of all the different species and varieties of culinary vegetables (IA familykitchengar56buis).pdf/210

 at once. The result would be, instead of Pears being worth twenty-five cents per bushel, they would at least be worth twelve times that amount.

Planting the Pear, is precisely as described for the Apple; though they will admit of being as close as twenty-five or thirty feet. The finest trees we know, grow on a light. loamy soil, three feet deep, with a sandy, gravelly bottom. The worst soil we have observed them on, is composed of a sandy, thin, light nature, with a cold or wet bottom.

.—This tree, in the first few years of its growth, after being transplanted, requires the aid of the knife in directing the formation of its head; but when once formed, it requires no further care, unless to keep the interior of the head thinned out, to allow a free circulation of air. Avoid making large amputations when pruning. The saw and the axe are dangerous implements in the hands of unskilful orchardists.

is the only disease in this country that attacks the Pear. Its remedies are not yet fully tested, and at present are very conflicting and unsatisfactory. The fact, that in some situations they are more subject to it than in others, shows conclusively, I think, that it is a local and not an atmospheric disease.

The Insect Blight appears in July and August, and frequently has done much mischief before being detected—whole limbs dying, as it were, instantly. Remedy, examine your trees frequently in those months, and as soon as you detect any of the limbs with the leaves having a drooping appearance, and in habit altogether different from the other portions of the tree, cut it off close to the main limb, and have it destroyed. The insect has girdled the pith, and prevented the circulation of the sap.

. Rather more attention ought to be given to the collecting and keeping the fruit of the Pear tree