Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/60

52 puzzle to more than one of the workmen we have seen attempt it: and as it is a very essential point to have this very exact, we will give minute instructions how to draw it. Draw line B C, and make a mark exactly in the centre between these two points, and square up at right angles to it to point A. Having decided on the size you wish it from B to C, measure across from B towards A the same amount, and make a mark where it touches this line, when it will be found C to A will be the same distance, and thus you will have an equilateral triangle, i.e., all the sides are equal. Now proceed to bar these three sides with twist in the same manner as you would for a bar-tack, i.e., about two or three times, but be careful to keep the corners very true; and having thus barred from A to B, B to C, and C to A, you are now in a position to proceed with the tacking proper, which you do by bringing your needle up as near point A as possible at 1, and take twist across and prick needle through at 2 as near point, C as you can bring it back at 3, also as near C as possible, and carry it across to 4 up again at 5, and across to point 6, which will complete the first stitch; and you come to your second in the same manner by coming up at 1 as near the other stitch as you can, across and down at 2, up at 3, across and down at 6, and so on till you have finished it, when it will present the appearance of diagram 2; and we think there are few features which add a more artistic effect to a lady's Ulster or Jacket than this, especially when applied to the top of a box pleat, for which part it seems especially suitable.

This is essentially the dressmakers' method, who makes not the slightest claim to scientific knowledge: but it has also to be resorted to by the best of cutters, so that although extremes meet, yet there is a marked difference in their methods of doing the same things. The former slavishly follows the run of every seam, whilst the cutter merely takes the essentials of fit from the old garment, and then goes to work to infuse as much art as he possibly can, so as to, as far as possible, bring out the points of beauty or tone down those prominent features which would detract from the grace of the garment on the figure. The exact method they each use, however, is as follows:—The dressmaker takes her pattern garment and pins paper on each part, and by placing it over her knee, she is enabled to get the exact shape, and then by allowing seams on all sides, she can thus produce a facsimile garment; and it would be idle for us to say the method is not successful, as we have seen some first-class results produced in this way. Some of them go to the trouble of ripping one side of the old garment, and tracing with a wheel through exactly where the seam was sewn; and having done so, to remake the garment. That, however, is generally the result of a want of experience of the other way, and which is equally good if done carefully. In contrast to this, however, we will show

As adopted by a well-known West End tailor, as follows:—Whenever a garment was ordered which he was unable to measure the lady for, he would send the old garment to a firm of bust makers to have a dummy made to fit the bodice, by which means he would be able to successfully cater for the wants of that particular customer without a try on, even if she were in the Antipodes; as he would, for all practical purposes, have her duplicate to try on as many times as he could wish. This method, of course, entails an extra cost (about 10s. we are informed) on the first order; but the after result certainly justifies the outlay, and as the bust would be always ready for use at any time, the first cost would be the only one, and would be of use for every kind of garment. Having once obtained this, it only remains to follow his usual method; but all tailors cannot fellow this plan on account of the expense, so they usually fit the old bodice on a dummy of figure as near the same size and shape as possible, and pad it up to the bodice wherever the figure is lacking. Another method is to lay down the garment so that each piece lies flat, and take a tracing of it by means of a pricker in a similar manner to the dressmakers' method; but this requires practice to do it successfully.

We now pass on to another method of cutting, viz.,

By this method a pattern which has been found to fit satisfactorily is used as a starting basis, and which may be taken as the shaded pattern in the diagrams. Now draw lines as shown above P, continuing it above also from to Q, and from R (which is level with the bottom of the armhole) through S, and from R to T.

Whilst in the small sizes it will be as well to shorten the waist as at 0, V, U, say ¼ inch for every 2 inches in the total size of the breast. Turning to