Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/59

Rh These rank amongst the most troublesome defects, and like all others may arise from various causes; such for instance as a shoulder of the wrong shape, a short collar, badly put in linings, or canvas, &c. The most general cause of this defect is an insufficient distance from A to B, and too great a distance from B to C; it arises from what many term a too crooked shoulder. On the diagram we illustrate two ways of remedying, one by the dot and dash line, the other by the dotted line. These alterations apply only when the defect has been caused by a defective form: but if, as often is the case, they arise from faulty manipulation, the remeiy must be found in that direction.

These most frequently arise from the lining being put in tight. The shoulder being hollow requires the linings put in very wide over the shoulder, and in many cases this defect can be remedied by giving more width to the linings, &c. Some we know apply the remedies in a negative way, i.e., they narrow the outside, which practically amounts to the alteration illustrated by the dotted line at neck.

This is a defect frequently met with by cutters who take insufficient measures, &c. Every one will at once agree upon the wide difference there may be in the form of ladies' figures of the same size chest. One lady of say 34 breast will have a well developed chest, and prominent bust; the other will have no figure at all; hence it is evident that to cut the same shape garment for both must end in failure. When this has been done, to remedy is a somewhat difficult matter; indeed, it would require either new foreparts or a vest inserted down the fronts, unless very large inlays had been left all over. The alteration shown on diagram 199 will probably be more useful when cutting a fresh pattern, though of course the variations shown are the alterations required in the made up garment also, viz., a piece taken off sidebody from A to B, and sidepiece from C to D, the front being advanced at E F, and so giving the extra width to the chest needed. Do not give a round front to this figure, as the busts being prominent there is the greater depression between them, and consequently the greater need of shortness down the centre of front.

We have now dealt with the principal defects usually met with in body garments., and we have treated of sleeves in the section devoted to them. In suggesting remedies we have not laid down any quantities, as such must be decided on the merits of each case.

In getting up a work on Ladies' Tailoring, there are many little things which, though very useful in themselves, cannot be properly classified under any of the previous sections, so we purpose dealing with such in this section. We take first

These are very popular at the present time, many of them being made much deeper than our illustration, but, as far as the cutting is concerned, it is the same. The ordinary close-fitting Bodice or Jacket pattern is taken as illustrated by dotted line, and the outline of the belt is then marked as much, above and below the waist as may be desired; care must be taken to avoid getting it too hollow at top and bottom of the various parts, or there will be a peak at the seam. The aim must be to get it to run true when finished, rather than when cut. These belts are made up with bones under the various seams as for a Bodice, which will also necessitate the lining being put in extra long. It will be noticed there is only one dart taken out, which will be found quite sufficient. Figure 58 shows the front laced up, but this is not necessary back and front, so that if desired the front may be cut on the crease, as it is quite straight, though the introduction of a seam frequently adds to the effect. The next detail we will notice is

Dovetail tacks make one of the nicest finishes possible for box pleats, the ends of pockets, &c., though perhaps it is open to the objection that it is rather showy. Very great care is necessary to execute it nicely, one of the chief points being to keep the threads very regular. Another very essential feature is that all three sides shall be exactly equal. See

Commence by chalking on the cloth a triangle of the size you desire the tack to be when finished. This, although a very simple matter, has been a bit of a