Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/58

50 only way by which anything like a satisfactory result can be obtained, but with these cape collars, a rather wider sweep of material is required than ordinarily, and as very little working up is needed, it is not of so much importance.

This we think exhausts the subject of collars, and if we have gone into detail rather too minutely for some of our more advanced readers, we can only plead the importance of the subject, and the general ignorance that prevails on this topic.

Although this is really outside the scope originally intended for this work, yet we have little doubt a few hints on the various defects generally met with, will prove of service. Let us take first the defects that arise from

Too long a front shoulder produces a fold or series of folds all across the front, as from E to H: the remedy is shown by dot and dash line 7, 8 9. Too long a back balance produces folds all across back, as from A to B, showing more especially at B. Remedy as per dotted line 1 2 3. These are good illustrations of too much length producing horizontal folds.

The reverse of these defects, viz., a too short back balance, would produce the garment too low at back neck owing to its fitting close at waist, and thus being dragged down: whilst, if it was worn unbuttoned, it would hang away from the waist behind. The easiest way to remedy is to either pass the back up on the sidebody, and re-adjust the scye; or if there is plenty of length about the waist of the garment, shorten the front shoulder and deepen the scye, producing extra relative length of back. A too short front shoulder produces tightness of scye, fulness at top of sideseam, creases down front shoulder, &c. If you have an inlay on shoulder, let it down; if not reverse the suggested alteration to the back, viz., deepen the scye and shorten the back.

As illustrated from to 1), are caused by a too straight sideseam or insufficient receptacle for the blades. The remedy is illustrated by dotted lines 4, 5, 6.

As from K to L, are produced by too much being added on the one side below the waist, and not enough on the other, so producing a drag from K to L; the remedy is to let out from 14 to 15, and if necessary to reduce the hips to their original size; take in from K downwards.

As at I, J and G H have two principal causes. 1. Linings put in too short. 2. Too tight over the hips. In either case remedy accordingly. All linings should be put in very long over the waist—See our remarks on making up in previous sections. If it is too tight over the hips the remedy will be to let out as from 10 to 11, and 12 to 13. Each part should be stretched on the outside as at K, I, J, G, H, and shrink in the middle. The bones should also be put in very long.

As at L, M, is produced by a too round front edge, as our readers will have gathered from the preceding pages: the front edge should be straight, or if cut round, every bit of round drawn in and worked back over the breast. If this defect exists in a made up garment, the best way to alter it as per 1, 2, 3, 4, and then draw in the front edge to work the fulness back.

In cutting a fresh garment, the remedy is illustrated by 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12.

Is produced by an insufficient provision for the busts. One remedy is to alter as per 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and draw in the front edge, but that is not nearly as good a remedy as illustrated by 6, 7, 8, 9 10, viz., let out under the arms, and take in at the dart, but a reference to diagram 116 will, we think, make this quite clear. If there is any difficulty in pressing away the

Put a trifle of wadding about the size of the finger nail, and then try to press it away. If this is not sufficient, the darts have not been taken high enough. Remedy accordingly.