Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/55

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The collar forms such an important part of every garment, that it would on no account do to omit it from any work that aimed at completeness; and as we anticipate this volume going into the hands of many novices, we shall treat of them rather fully; and if perchance Ave go into the smaller details too much for the more experienced, we crave their indulgence on behalf of the novices.

This is the simplest form of collar possible to put on any garment, it is illustrated on Figs. 23 and 24, Plate 12. A little examination of the neck will show it must be longer round the sewing on edge than at the top, this is provided for by cutting a round sewing on edge; and it may be as well to state that the rounder the sewing to edge the shorter it will be on the top, and consequently fit the closer. The system for producing these is as follows:—Draw line W D F, and make W to F the half size of the neck; come up from F to V 1 inch as a standard (more if a very close fit round the top edge is desired). D is midway between F and W. Draw curve from V to D, and continue on to W. V to 2 ° is drawn at right angles to V D, the height also to taste. W 2 is at right angles to W D, the height also to taste; W 2 may be cut on the crease or not, as fancy may dictate. In making, it is interlined with a good stiff buckram, and in putting this in it should be put in rather shorter than the outside, as the position it occupies on the wearer being a decided circle, renders it imperative for the outside to be the longer. "We will not describe the putting on of this collar, as it is done in the same way as is described below, when dealing of Diagram 110, so we pass on to deal of

This is illustrated on Fig. 21), and may be best described as a double stand collar, as it is cut exactly the same as described above, with a second collar cut deeper, as illustrated by dotted line below W D F. In making, the stand collar is put on first, and then the other is sewn to its top edge by its lining; the outside being arranged to come about ½ inch over the top: the lining of the stand collar coming over the top of this is neatly felled in the ordinary way This is a very popular collar, and has a much smarter appearance than the plain stand collar, which it resembles so much. It is worn on almost all garments: Blouses, Bodices, Jackets, and Ulsters, all have this style of finish at the neck occasionally.

Is really only a variety of the Panteen, the fall half being cut much narrower behind, and with a long point in the front. It is mostly used on Blouses, &c., in place of that illustrated on Diagram 92.

This is illlustrated on Figs. 13, 41, 42, 43, and others; and, as our readers are well aware, it is, at the time we write, the most popular finish for all garments at the neck. It is really a stand collar cut with a hollow sewing to edge, and consequently; a very full or long top edge: indeed, just such an effect as would be produced by taking an ordinary stand collar and inserting V's all along the top. The excessive size on the top edge allows it to be worn much deeper than it could be in any other way, and consequently this commends it to those who are exposed to inclement weather; indeed it has been called the storm collar. The system for producing this is as follows:—W D F at right angles, W D the height of collar desired. W to $1 1⁄2$ $1 1⁄2$ inches, D to F half neck measure minus ¾ inch, F to V 3 inches. Draw D V with a gradual curve, and outline the top part to taste; and as these may be finished square, pointed, or curved, there is considerable scope for the designer. The system, as here laid down, will produce a good average style; if more fulness is desired round the top, increase the quantities from F to V and W to 1½. In making, it is of course interlined with buckram; and, as the inside of these show, the lining is generally of silk or some bright material, but whatever is used in this way it should be nicely and neatly finished.

This is not so much worn now as it was at one time, but in order to describe all kinds of collars, we give it a place. The system is as follows:—W D half neck, D F, 1 inch, draw curve of sewing on edge from W to F, W to V and F to ½ is the stand, below which, as from V to I, is the fall. In making, the sewing to edge must be well stretched in the hollow. In style this much resembles the Panteen Collar, but is not so deep in the stand at front, and is cut all in one piece, though it is nothing unusual to find the under collar arranged with the stand and fall cut separate. Especially when it is made of very thick material, as it frequently is for Box Coats and Driving Capes, such as ladies are now wearing for driving, &c.