Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/54

46 the plan adopted when a yoke is desired, the lower part being often fulled on this line, in which case about 2 or 3 inches must be added on beyond the outline of both back and front, according to the degree of fulness desired.

These are often worn with blouses, sometimes separate, sometimes fastened to them; being generally of a contrasting colour, they add much to the effect. They are very simple to cut, the system being as follows:—Take a forepart and back of the size breast desired, and place the shoulder seams together, mark down the back seam for the centre of the collar, and then round the back neck and down the front as low as desired; the length and width being quite a matter of taste, we can only refer our readers to the diagram as a guide, which is but an example to be varied from as desired.

Either the sleeve shown on Diagram 91, or an ordinary sleeve, are suitable to be worn with the blouse, but whichever style is adopted, looseness must be a marked feature, otherwise it will not be in harmony with the body part; for that reason, perhaps, Diagram 91 style of sleeve would be the most suitable.

This garment has become very popular during the past few years, and is used for many kinds of athletic exercises, under short-kilted skirts, whilst in addition to this they are largely used for ordinary wear: so that no work on ladies' garments would be complete without it. They are made in so many different ways and from so many different materials, that we shall have to leave our readers to arrange these details, so at once proceed to describe

Draw line A N; A to C is one-eighth natural waist; A E one-fourth breast; A H natural waist plus ½ an inch; H J one-fourth seat plus 1 inch; J N length of leg desired. A to B one-sixth neck; C to D one-fourth breast; E to F 1 inch less than one-fourth breast to find front of scye; E to G one-fourth breast plus 2 to 2½: H to I one-fourth breast; J to K one-fourth seat: K P drawn at right angles to J K, or parallel to J N; P to width of leg desired; J M half J K, or one-eighth seat; L is midway between M and J. Take a fish out of forepart to make it fit close at waist, as per dotted line. If intended to fasten down the front, add on a button stand of about 1 inch, and the forepart is complete.

Take the cut-out forepart and place as per dotted lines, from H to T is 1 inch; F to S is 1 inch; A to R is ¾ inch; all the other points are as for the fore-part. It is customary to arrange them to fasten at the waist behind, when an extra inch should be left at bottom of back, to allow of the undersides overlapping.

Illustrates the underpart of the lower portion, the dotted lines illustrate the forepart, H to is 3 inches. Draw line from M through U, measure up seat, and generally allow 3 inches beyond seat measure (if desired very easy allow more), and draw sideseam straight through from P X to W; draw line H I across to W, and so get the length of side; place the square on the seat seam Y U V, and square across to W. The uudersides may be cut all in one with the top, by merely letting the undersides overlap ½ inch at P and X.

Is the sleeve. 1 to 2 is 2 inches, 2 to 3 is the length of forearm desired, 4 to 5 is the same, 2 to 4 is half size of scye, and 3 to 5 is the width of sleeve desired. These combinations are frequently cut low at the neck, but our readers will readily be able to do this, as it only needs cutting as much as is desired from E B of back, and C B of forepart.

The system as here laid down can be used for Knickers or Drawers; cutting the topsides, as illustrated by dotted line from Q to I, which is got by arranging the square one arm on H L and the other resting on I. These garments are almost invariably made without sideseams, which can be arranged as before described for combinations. The waist is reduced to size when putting them into a waistband.