Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/49

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Is got by laying down the cut-out forepart, and sweeping from A to X, using G as a pivot, and making A to X 4 inches, and draw side of underside from X to C. Now make star a pivot, and sweep from K to S, and mark off 4 inches; draw a line from X to S, and reduce to the size of the waist by means of V's as illustrated, making T U V W about 1 inch above line S X. Come out from R to Y from 1 to 2 inches, and take out Y to correspond in quantity with the two fishes from the forepart, taking out the surplus length from M to Y in a V upwards, as illustrated by dotted line at M. Complete the outline of undersides by the topsides, making it rather hollower at the bottom, as shown by the dotted lines. A fish may be taken out of topsides, as illustrated by dot and dash line from I, if a very clean-fitting lap is desired. If more room is desired over the seat of undersides, increase the quantity from A to X and K to S, which will have the same effect as an increased seat angle would to trousers, the principle involved in this Train being very similar to those employed in trousers cutting generally. Care must be taken to locate the knee correctly, and, if found possible, it will be as well to take a measure from waist to knee when in the saddle, and then apply it from I to M, which may increase or reduce the distance from M to I. The same hint we have previously given for the making of Trains will apply with equal force to this, so that it will be quite unnecessary for us to again repeat them here.

Of all the odds and ends the ladies' tailor has to know how to produce, there is probably none of more general usefulness than the shaped skirt band, as it admits of such general application. Hence we give a simple system for producing such. The measures necessary are: the depth of band, the size of waist, and the size of seat, which for the present we will say are 7 deep, 24 waist, 40 seat; seat measure taken about 7 inches below waist. Commence by drawing line O, 7, 0, 12 at right angles; from to 7 is 7 inches; come out 1, and draw line from to 1; from O to 12 is half waist, from which sweep up to 5½, using point as the pivot; from 12 to 5½ is one-third of the difference between waist and seat, and draw top from 5½ to by a gradual hollow; to get the run of the front come up from 5½ to 11, as much as from 12 to $5 1⁄2$, and then draw the front from 5½ to A at right angles to O 11, making the length to agree with measure taken, and complete by adding on a button-stand wherever it is desired, in the manner illustrated at O 1.

These are sometimes used in making a foundation, by joining a piece of straight or slightly sloped material on at the bottom, as is illustrated on Diagram 87, from line 7 20 downwards, the back being pleated on. The advantage of this method is the thinness round the waist and hips, as by this means all V seams or fulness are avoided. It is a most useful pattern in many ways—such, for instance, as fashioning the drapery, illustrated on figures on diagrams; putting point 5½ to the front of skirt and A to 7; shaping the top by 5½ 0, and continuing over the hips from to 20, when the extra length of side is pleated in to form the folds, as illustrated. This, however, is merely one of its uses. It may be used to cut the top edge of the flaps for jackets of the Newmarket type, and in the case of short skirts it may be used for them; but we have no doubt our readers will soon find the uses to which it may be put, so we will pass on to deal with

The measures necessary for this are: length of front, side and back, size of waist taken tightly, and size of hips taken rather easily, about 7 inches down from the waist. These would probably stand, 39½, 40, 41; 24, 40, and are applied as follows: Draw line 40, 20; from to 20 is half seat; from to 7 is 7 inches always, and from to 40 is the length of front, plus ½ inch; come in from to 1 1 inch, and drop it ½ inch, and draw a line from 1 through 7, which finds the centre crease edge of front; of course it is not imperative that this should be on the crease, but when cut from Italian cloth it may be so with advantage; make from ½ to 4 one-eighth of waist; now come in from 20 to 19 one inch, and draw line from 19 through 20 to find run of the side; now if it is desired to get it smaller round the bottom edge, come in less from 19, but on no account reduce the size from 7 to 20, as that must be retained in order to provide room for the seat; now reduce the top to one and a half inches less than half waist by means of V's, as illustrated; though, in making, we prefer to arrange the two back ones by pleats, rather than by cutting the V's out; as by that means any variation in the size of the hip is provided for. The front drapery illustrated on right hand figure on diagram 87, is arranged just the same as. this, the back V's being generally dispensed with, and the fulness put in to the band at side. If it is desirable to have a seam down the side of foundation; the V at 9½ may be continued through to the bottom as illustrated by dot and dash line; indeed, all the V's may be done in this way if seams are desired to introduce effect. We now come to the back foundation.