Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/48

40 placed about 1 inch apart; and in the former it is fastened together with holes and buttons and a fly. A pocket is usually inserted in the opening, the outline of which we have illustrated by the dot and dash lines. A broad hem, say 3 inches, is left round the bottom, and in cutting, an inlay is usually left down the side-seam. In cutting it from the cloth special care must be used not to cut it inside out, an error many beginners make. If the pattern is laid down as it is placed on the Plate, the face of the cloth should be uppermost.

The quantity of material required will be 3 yards of 56 inches wide material; but if it should not run quite so wide, a wheel piece can easily be put on the topside at 56.

Complicated as this garment looks at first sight, a closer examination will show it to be really of a very simple nature, and such as any tailor of ordinary experience might make easily, the principal feature being to locate the knee accurately, and avoid all surplus materia], whether at seat or lap. The length is generally made to just cover or show the golosh of the boot of the stirrup foot. Various methods are adopted to hold the Habit and Train together, hooks and eyes, or tabs and buttons being the two most frequently employed. We have placed buttons on the diagram, one at the side just below 7½ on line 2, and one just above 17 on line 5½, which seam would come as nearly as possible down the centre of back, the centre of front being fixed midway between 5½ and 10½, and should be marked by a little white cotton on the waistband to assist the wearer in adjusting it properly.

These are the principal points to be observed in making this Train. We have previously dealt with trying them on, and many other hints of a general nature, and which our readers will doubtless remember; should any point in the diagram not be quite clear, it is drawn to the one-twelfth scale, and may be found accordingly. We may also add that patterns of this style of train can be had from the Tailor and Cutter Office, special reference being made when ordering to the New Safety Train.

It is generally acknowledged that the majority of cutters produce their Riding Trains from block patterns, and we are not going to dispute the efficacy of so doing, as we believe it is one of the best methods of producing the general run of Trains. But there are times in the experience of most cutters whose business lies to any extent in the ladies' trade, that orders have come for very out-of-the-way sizes. Most probably this conies in the shape of the little girl who is just beginning her career as an equestrienne, and as her form is altogether different to that of the normal figure, for the cutter to use his ordinary block pattern would be found not only inappropriate, but almost certain to lead to failure. It is for such cases that a system based on what we believe to be sound principles is of especial use, and the one we now lay before our readers for the first time will, we feel sure, be equal to all such cases. Systems such as this one are only arrived at after much study and extended experiment; indeed, this which we now lay before our readers, occupying but a page of this work, has taken years of study in its development; and though we do not claim perfection for it, we have every confidence that it will produce a good-fitting Train, and be especially useful in those out of the way sizes above referred to, as well as forming a foundation for others to elaborate and perfect.

Required are side, waist, seat, round sent and knee, with right leg raised as in the act of riding (this latter may be omitted, but is decidedly preferable); they would probably stand 40 side, 24 waist, 40 seat, 64 seat and knee. The applicaaion of these measures is as follows: draw line ABC; A to C is the side length; A to B one-fourth side, and square across to D L P; B to D is one-fourth seat, and D I corresponds with the fork quantity of trousers, viz., one-third B D; I J is the same as D I; J to L is one-fourth side, which will be found about equal to one-third of the leg length; L P is half knee circumference; thus the total distance from B to P is made up; this may also be obtained by measuring off B to P half seat and knee circumference plus 1 inch, and point L found by measuring back from P half knee circumference. Come up from L to M from 1 to 1½ inches, and draw line J M *; make M a pivot, and sweep from R to P. We now turn to the upper part; square line D E at right angles to D B, and mark from E to G one-fourth waist plus 1½; hollow from E to F about 1½ inches, or an amount equal to one-sixth of the disproportion of waist in the reverse way as followed for corpulent trousers, taking the ideal as waist G inches less than seat; take out 1 inch in a V at H, and terminate it about 4 inches down; this is often used to form the opening. Square line F K at right angles to F J, and make F K one fourth waist plus ½ inch, and continue the run of waist across as shown, and connect K R as shown; take out two fishes of about H inches each as shown, so that they will come just over the knee. Continue below P by coming down from L to O 1½ inches, and squaring at right angles to P; shape the side by springing it out about 1 inch at C, and slightly round it as illustrated, and the topside is complete.