Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/47

Rh These instructions apply to the ordinary style of riding with the right leg resting on the pommel of the saddle. There are a few ladies who ride with the left leg in that position, when these instructions must be reversed, but such cases are few and far between.

Should always be arranged, if possible, as the run of bottom is a special feature with those who make this branch a study, and this can only be successfully arranged by a "try-on," as it is always advisable to consult the ladies' wishes, while at the same time being prepared to advise her upon any point she may desire. The position of the elastics for foot can also be decided in this manner, which will be found more simple and successful than any elaborate calculation of leg length, &c. A dummy horse is kept for this purpose in all the leading ladies' tailoring establishments, but if the firm should not possess this desideratum, it may be safely left in the hands of the lady's maid and the intended wearer, who will adjust all these little details to a nicety.

Is drawn to the one-twelfth scale, and should produce a garment when made up to measure 2½ yards round the bottom for a 24 waist, Full size patterns of this may be obtained at our office, price 1s. 6d., post free 1s. 7d., which method may be preferred by many of our readers to drafting it out for themselves.

Many accidents to ladies thrown from their horses, having been very much aggravated by their Habit Trains catching in the saddle, has induced some of the inventive minds to prepare a Train in such a style as would not offer the least resistance to the complete fall of the lady from her horse. We have recently had several of these through our hands, and the diagrams on Plate 36 is a reduced model of one of these, and which, if our readers will reproduce by the ordinary tape, will be suitable for an average lady of 24 waist and 40 side length. We shall not go over the diagram point by point, as it would serve no purpose, especially as these are seldom cut by system, indeed, we believe we shall be right in saying that 91) cutters out of every 100 engaged in the best ladies' trades cut their trains out in this way, though for those who prefer a system we give one on the next page, so that our remarks on this New Safety Train, will be more of a practical than a scientific nature. Variations in length should be made at the bottom, but if the side length should show a great increase, it would be well to lower the V for the knee, as at W D, so that the distance from 12 to K agrees with the measure taken on the customer. Variations in the size of waist alone may be made by enlarging or reducing the V's, whilst for ladies, larger or smaller, both in seat and waist, the variation should be made through from to 40, by merely adding to or deducting from as the case may require. Care must, of course, be taken to get the pattern cut the right way, as previously described for the West End Train.

Of this train are, first, its being left open from D to 56, there a large hole is cut as illustrated at W D of topside, and F V of underpart, so that the usual surplus material between the knee and the pommel is avoided, and in case of accident there is plenty of room for the Train to free itself from the saddle. A double strip of elastic about D inches long is sewn on at A, and a button placed at 3 O, so that the elastic may come under the knee and secure the lady at that part; and in order to avoid any possibility of the elastic becoming unfastened, a short loop of twisted cord is put at 8 close to the button, which is put over the button after the elastic is fastened to it, so that if the elastic should work itself free of the button, it is still held by the loop: this loop is also useful to hold the skirt up when walking, when it is fastened to the button at 1 7 of undersides. Below the opening it will be noticed there are four elastic loops, which are fastened to the buttons on the under part; neither of these are stayed with linen, as the object of having it open is to allow the weight of the body to break away these tabs or buttons from their place in case of the lady being thrown from her horse, and the train catches on the pommel. As some of our readers may desire a train without this safety arrangement, we have outlined at W and D the amount to be filled in of the topside, and from 33½ to V of the underside, when it will be made up in the ordinary style, closed all round.

The shaded parts of top and underside are lined with linen or silesia, the stays for the footstraps are covered with Italian cloth, and the opening is bound with Prussian binding or 'leather, a waist band is generally put round the top, and may either be of of Melton or Italian cloth, the latter being often preferred on account of thinness. The cuts or V's are usually taped, and the opening for putting on or off is either made at the side, forming a continuation of the V at 5½, 3 and 4, or it may be arranged at front as at 12, 10½, in which latter case it is fastened together with hooks and eyes