Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/46

38 half the size of the leg at the various, parts plus ½ inch; thus at calf, half of 13½= 6¾ + ½ inch for seams = 7¼. Arrange the run of the buttons to agree with the sideseam of breeches, and leave an inch for button stand on the one side, and come out from line 0, 16, as much as the button stand is behind it; thus to 1½ is 1½ inches, allowing 1 inch for button stand, would equal 2½. The diagram illustrates a very good size of bottom, and if the figures are taken to represent inches all over, this will produce a very good medium size pattern, starting in all cases from for the length and from O 16 for the widths.

The bottom part of the gaiter diagram illustrates how these garments may be cut, and as they are now largely used in the Winter, we have no doubt our readers will have occasional calls for them; they are made from 6 to 10 inches long; and to produce them, all our readers will have to do will be to take this diagram, and measure from the bottom upwards the length desired. The tongue for these is carried through to the top always. Sometimes the buttons are run in a curve towards the front, but this is a variation our readers will readily be able to alter if their customers should so desire it.

Under this heading we purpose giving illustrations of a variety of Riding Trains, two of which will be reduced models of West End garments, and the third will be given more to illustrate how these may be cut by system, for though we do not generally advise such a method of catting these garments, yet it is especially useful in cutting for children or any out of the way size. For general purposes

Will meet the requirements of the ordinary run of customers better, it being a pattern that has been carefully tested and tried by a large number, and is now so improved as to leave little to be desired. It is largely used in the West End, as well as the most fashionable hunting districts.

As will be seen, it consists of three pieces, viz., back ( Diagram 80), side (Diagram 81), and front (Diagram 82), which are put together exactly as they are placed on the diagram: the right side of top part being joined to the right side of under part, as shown by E F G, the corresponding letters going together in each case. The diagram exactly represents the inside of a Train with the seam at E F G ripped open. The vent is placed either at the side or front, according to taste, and a pocket is generally inserted in the facing as illustrated. The under part and top part are lined over the seat and knee with Silesia, to take some of the wear caused by the friction with the saddle, the position of this being shown with the dot and dash line, and elastic is put on in a suitable position for each boot. That part of the underside as shown by I F J is fulled on to the opposite part of the fish on either side. The topside is also stretched up as shown by marks at L, but at all other parts it is put together plain; the letters corresponding show where the various seams are to be sewn together. The bottom is finished with a broad hem, in which weights of lead are frequently inserted when the material is at all thin. The length is regulated by making the sides as at C D agree with the length from waist to ground when standing, trains being now much shorter than they were in the olden time (when trains merely consisted of so much cloth pleated into the band at waist). They are finished at waist both with and without waistbands: in the former case they are merely bound, and left so for the sake of thinness, but if a band is put on it is as well to have a point to put at the centre of front as at X, which is a very great assisttance to the lady in adjusting its position. Whatever plan is adopted for finishing the waist at top, it should be carefully arranged to agree with the exact size of waist, and hooks should be put on by which to fasten it to tabs fixed at back and sides of the bodice part. Any slight variation in the size of waist may be arranged by reducing the size of cuts in under part at K and of sidepiece at N, but if there is more than 1 or 1½ inches of difference in size of waist, it will be best to enlarge or reduce it throughout by adding to or taking from the parts all down, as at A B of underside and C D of topsides: whilst all variations in the length must be made by adding to or taking from the bottom.

Great care must be used to have the face of material right side out, and we think we cannot better explain ourselves than to say, lay the pattern down as represented in the diagram, i.e., presuming the cloth to be opened out with the wrong side uppermost. Place the pattern of the top part with the side at C D close up to left hand selvage, standing with the bottom of the cloth towards you. The under part is then taken out by laying it with A B close up to the right hand selvage, and then taking the sidepiece out from the most convenient part with D towards the right.