Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/45

Rh much what you do, as how you do it. A judicious tact will soon enable the cutter to get over these somewhat delicate operations with ease, and overcome that nervousness which betrays a want of experience. We will not dwell further on these preliminary remarks, but proceed to deal with

At one time it did not matter much how these were cut, so long as they were made big enough, but now that the trains are made so very close fitting, it will readily be seen how great is the necessity for their fitting perfectly. Trousers are not so much worn as they were at one time, breeches and leggings, or breeches and top boots being largely patronised by the leaders of society; but inasmuch as the customers our clients are likely to have to cater for, not being composed entirely of that class, we think it preferable to give diagrams of both trousers and breeches. The materials from which these are mostly made are stockinette and elastic cloths.

One of the leading West End firms makes a speciality of dressed deer skin, which allows of the desired form being imparted with the utmost nicety. This firm generally make garments of this class to fasten quite close below the knee, and supply leggings; or top boots are worn with them. We have heard many rumours that ladies are patronising the knickerbocker breeches with the Devon knee bands, as now worn by gentlemen; the material selected for these being of the most masculine patterns. These, however, have not yet become very general.

It is not necessary for us to point out the positions of top, leg, or bottoms, as our readers know these are found in the usual way, though it may be as well to mention that the legs are cut 1 inch longer than the measure for fulling on over the knee. E H I is the centre line of the legs; from E to B, and E to D are both one third of the seat, C is midway between E and D; to F may be made 1½ inches, O to G the half waist and 3 inches, the waist being reduced to size by means of V's, as illustrated. The widths of the legs are equally divided on either side of H I, the usual widths for trousers being about 16 knee, 15 bottom. In drafting the undersides, come up from C to J, 1 inch more than from C to E, and square the scat seam from J by letting the other arm of the square rest on B; make up the size of the seat at the side, by allowing 2 or 3 inches for seams and ease, continuing the sideseam to the top pretty straight, and reducing it to the necessary size by means of V's.

It is of the utmost importance that the position the lady occupies when in the saddle should be borne in mind, as that is the only position in which they should be worn, hence, it will be necessary to manipulate the sides differently.

The top sides should be fulled on at the knee, quite 1 inch for the leg that goes over the pommel (usually the right leg), and the underside fulled on a like amount at the seat. All those made from cloth have a considerable portion of the seat and legs lined with chamois, to prevent any possibility of chafing; they are generally finished with fly fronts, the fly extending to the leg seam; eyelets are placed at the back, so that they may be adjusted to the exact size of waist; others are made with flys at the sides, but this is by far the older plan. The V's taken out at the waist must all be neatly finished either by covering with galoon or some other similar method. Waist bands are never put to the trousers, the whole aim being to keep everything as thin as possible. The waist band lining is invariably silk, which make a nice finish to the top.

These are precisely the same as the trousers in the body part, but of course tight-fitting from knee downwards, and in this respect they resemble gents pantaloons, for they are generally extended to within about 2 inches of the ankle, or say ten inches below the knee; the width is distributed equally on either side of centre line for both top and underside, an average measure of a lady's leg at these parts for a 24 waist, would be about 14 knee, 12½ small 13½ calf, and 8¾ bottom, the small is generally about 2 inches below the knee, and the calf 2½ or 3 inches below the small; these hints may enable our readers to cut from the most meagre measures, which we know by experience, is only too often all he can get for that garment. There are generally 4 or 5 buttons placed at the bottom of these of a flat kind, the buttons on the right side being put on the leg seam side, so as to prevent all unnecessary friction when in the saddle. This plan is also followed with

These are cut in the same style as a coachman's, though some firms continue the tongue up to the top, instead of the method illustrated; but this is merely a point in detail wherein different firms vary. Draw lines 16, and mark off the length to calf, ankle, bottoms, &c., and measure back from this line