Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/44

36 duced. The back is cut on the crease or double edge of the cloth, and the bottom part, as from 20 to 12, is sewn together, the cut at neck from ¾ to 4¾ is sewn up, either to a band with holes to fasten to buttons placed round the neck, or it may be sewn in with the collar seam; the former plan is the one more generally adopted, as it allows for the hood being detached if desired.

Is a type of hood not nearly so popular as it was formerly, when it formed part of the ladies' Circular Cloak. It is cut on the crease down the back as the former one, and a cord is put in to a hem run all round the outside and drawn in, forming a series of gathers which gives it a rather graceful appearance. It is well to remark that this style should never be cut smaller than our diagram (except for a child) and in many cases a larger one would be decidedly preferable. The neck of this may be sewn in the same way as that described for the last, and is, in fact a method applicable to them all.

Is very stylish looking, and when not in use, lies quite flat across the back from shoulder to shoulder, being double at that part. As will be seen, it is produced by the back and foreoart being placed with their shoulder points touching, and a V taken out at neck, equal to ¼ of the breast, the bottom part is at D, being rounded so as to give it a circular appearance at the bottom. It should be cut with the back on the double, and points D D and 3, 12½ sewn together, and the bottom as at E sewn to the corresponding part of the other half.

Is quite a distinct style from any of the foregoing, and is arranged more with the idea of producing effect than for use, still it can be turned to practical use if desired. This style is a very favourite one with ladies, and allows full scope for the exhibition of any fancy lining desired. It lies quite flat with two points at bottom, and a pointed revers which can be faced with any contrasting material. The back is cut on the double; B B is sewn together, and those parts as from 14, A C C to 10 are joined to the corresponding parts on the other side. Point 10, just above C, then lies on the top of 10 on the back. There is a point at 14, another just above it by the crease edge, between C C and the pointed revers 10, 12½ turning back and form a most effective hood.

Is another of the same type, having only one point at bottom, and a revers sewn on to a hollow edge as 3, 9, $9 1⁄2$, going off to point, and overlapping each other at bottom. This forms a very pretty hood, and is not quite so complicated as the last one.

We now come to what may be looked upon as the more unusual garments, and which perhaps causes the young cutter more worry and nervousness than any other garments, this may very easily be avoided. The first operation is of course measuring, and on this we will give a few hints. First measure from the waist to the full length of side desired, in the usual way as for gents; to get the length of leg there are three very good ways; the one most generally practised is to ask the lady to sit down on a chair, and then measure the distance from waist to the chair; this gives the length of the body, and if this be deducted from the side, the accurate length of leg will be the result. Another way is to measure from waist to hip bone, and place the fork on a level of 3 inches below this. The third method of getting the leg measure is to measure from centre seam of back on to the bone of wrist, as for a sleeve, and a quantity will thus be obtained which coincides wonderfully well with the length of leg. Though, of course, it is highly advisable to get the length of leg correct, yet it is always preferable to get it short rather than long, as the former causes little inconveniences owing to the position occupied when in the saddle, being so different to gents who ride astride, and consequently require their riding breeches to come close up to the fork, with plenty of length from fork to knee. For the same reason, gents require a far more open style of cut than ladies. The remaining measures of waist, seat, size of knee, and bottom, are easily taken as far as trousers arc concerned; but with breeches, it is quite different. In those firms that make these garments a speciality, they ask the lady to take a seat, and lift the skirt over her knees and take the tight knee, small, and calf in the ordinary way. It will be for our readers to decide whether they will follow this plan, or ask the lady to forward them herself. For our own part we can see no reason why any objection should be raised, provided the operation is done in a business-like way. In all these things it is not so