Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/43

Rh I, marking off the length from A to I to the measure taken phis seams, and arranging the relative length of front, either square as shown on figures or pointed, or in any other way the customer may desire. So far we have only treated of a plain Cape without yoke or pleats, we will now describe

These are really nothing more than the top of the back and forepart cut off and a seam introduced, but a reference to diagram 69 will make this perfectly plain. The shaded part of back as outlined by A B C D E is the square yoke; it is generally made slightly pointed downwards, both back and front; but of course that is quite a matter of taste: we have seen some very fantastic designs in the outline of these yokes. The lower part of the Cape with the square yoke is illustrated by W T S L D E I, or if pleats are required as per illustrations, then add on from E to J and I to K of back, and T to U and W to X, a quantity in accordance with the number and style of pleats desired, but we will deal with these presently. The pointed yokes are cut as per dot and dash line from C to F and P to V, in which case part of the shoulder is cut with the lower part, when of course two seams must be allowed of overlap. In this way infinite variety may be introduced, both outline, length, and material used playing a very important part, and as there is so much scope in this direction, it is beyond the range of this work to attempt a description of them all. The more general length for the pointed yoke is to reach to the waist, whilst the square style generally runs about 6 or 7 inches deep behind, with the front arranged in accordance.

Is made in the manner above described, the amount varying according to the material: for an ordinary cloth, about 3 inches will be found sufficient for each pleat, so that if three pleats are desired the amount to be allowed from T to U and W to X would be 9 inches. A slit is generally arranged at the back pleat of the front, so that the arms may be brought forward without lifting the lower part of the Cape. With the pointed yoke, it is not so easy to adjust the pleats, still it becomes fairly easy if the principle is once mastered; the best way is to pleat up the material in the style desired, and then lay down the pattern and cut it out with the pleats already in the cloth. This simplifies the matter very considerably, and will always ensure the pleats being arranged satisfactorily. We will now give a few

These more fancy styles. The yokes are generally interlined with canvas and lined with silk, a strip of silk forming the front facing, except when they are lined right through with silk, but this is only occasionally. A waist-band is nearly always put to hold it in at the back and sides, the only exception being when they are made very full round the bottom, and not intended to define the waist at all; but tins is a style we have not yet treated of, as they are only occasionally seen in wear. The edges are more generally turned in and stitched, the fronts fastening with hooks and eyes; but there is no reason why, if so desired, they should not be made to fasten with holes and buttons. In such a case the inch of button-stand would require adding all down the front. Sometimes the front yoke is cut to extend to the waist in front, though it looks the same as the square yoke, the pleats being arranged on the top, this being done with the view of keeping the shoulders firm and close to the figure, as when the yoke extends to the waist it can be fastened to the figure by the aid of the waist-band.

Now that these adjuncts to overgarments are so very popular for both ladies and gentlemen, nothing could form a more appropriate conclusion to this section, especially as so few people really understand how to cut and make them, these we are now enabled to place before our readers embrace the leading styles which are now being worn. Full size patterns of these can be obtained at our Office, as well as of any other style our customers may require, provided sufficient instructions, or better still, an illustration is sent with the order. Anyone, however, possessed of ordinary intelligence, can reproduce those illustrated by the use of an inch tape, square, &c.

Is decidedly the most popular type, and is pretty generally known under the name of the jelly-bag hood. It falls open as it were, and shows the lining to advantage, which is a feature worthy of notice when a stylish effect is desired, and as the materials used for lining vary so much, embracing silk, satins, plush, velvet, &c., there is no lack of material by which, in this way, to relieve and brighten a garment which would otherwise look very heavy and dull. Hoods are really an arrangement to cover the head, and this type is one of the most suitable for this purpose, being one of the roomy class The diagram will readily explain how it may be