Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/42

34 on at W what the back lias been narrowed (see W D, diagram 53). Then continue from W to bottom of sidebody, filling in the hollow of waist about ½ an inch; now put the finger on F, and swing the sleeve forward, as per dot and dash line, till the cuff rests on a level of the waist at V, and mark round from F to Y, hollowing it a trifle more as shown; the outline of the bottom part is quite a matter of taste, and may be rounded or pointed, or arranged in any way to taste. If the body part has been cut without sidebodies, the solid line from F S to V outlines the under sleeve, it being cut straight down from F. If cut with sidebodies, the dash outline illustrates the style it is cut, the bottom being made to agree with the bottom of scye.

The shoulder seams are sewn together: the hindarm pitch of wing at W is put to the hindarm pitch of back; the forearm pitch is also arranged to harmonise the wing with the forepart: the under sleeve at F M is sewn to F M of the forepart, and the top and under sleeves are sewn together from F to V. A waist-band is sewn to the back at the centre and sideseams to keep it close to the figure, and the remainder of the garment is completed to taste. We will now proceed to treat of a few styles of ladies' Capes, and take first the

This is one of the easiest of Capes to cut, all that is necessary being to take the back and forepart, place the shoulder seams together as per dotted lines D F, and then mark round the back gorge and front. The only point needing special mention is the length; from W to 15 is always to measure, and then a line is drawn at right angles to the back seam across to F; then measure from 3 to 15, and make F to 15½ the same quantity; now measure from W to 15, and make D to V this quantity plus ¾ of an inch, and by these points arrange the sweep of bottom. The special feature of this Cape is the fulness which falls all round; it is often made all in one piece, the pattern being arranged to run with the back seam or where the back seam would be.

This is a much closer fitting Cape, and is also cut from a pattern of back and forepart. Arrange these with the shoulder point D touching, and the centre of front running at right angles to the back: having got this, pass the front forward 1 inch and drop it down ½ an inch, and in this way provide for the Y at D; the outline of the Cape is then got by the patterns in this position, the length being adjusted in the same way as described for the Three-quarter Circle Cape. This is a fairly full style of Cape, but not nearly as full as the previous one. It is often arranged with a seam over the shoulders, and, as a guide to locate this seam, come down from to A one-third of the breast, and mark across from A to B one-third of the breast: take out 2 or 3 inches from B to C, and arrange the seams as illustrated by the dotted lines from B and C to D. One great advantage of having this seam is, that the material runs the right way at both back and front.

Take the back, forepart, and sleeve, and place them as illustrated on diagram 57, the sleeve on the forepart pitch of sleeve and overlapping 1 inch; the back is then placed with the back pitch at the hindarm, the space at C being regulated more or less (say 7 or 8 inches) as it is desired close or full. The length is regulated as for the others, making the front ¾ of an inch more than the back. If the sleeve head is desired puffed, it must be arranged on the sleeve head before applying it to the forepart and back to cut the Cape by. This is a very stylish Cape, and one that is always popular for fairly heavy materials, fur, &c. There are one or two fancy styles of Capes which are very popular now, and in order to keep this work up to date, we will deal with

Our illustrations portray the square and pointed yokes, with pleats arranged below in either case. The back view illustrates the arrangement of the pointed yoke, whilst for the one with the square front yoke the back would be also square.

Is practically the same as we have just briefly described for the close-fitting Cape. Take the forepart and lay it down with the sleeve overlapping about 1 inch as at M, and arranged with the cuff X laying in its natural position. Now mark round the forepart from W V R Q P and S, and then continue the mark as per solid line from S to H by the sleeve head. Now put the back with that part where the sleeve is intended to be pitched to the hindarm of the sleeve at L, arranging the space H N by judgment, making it wider by swinging the back round by the pivot L if it is required full round the bottom, and vice versa if it is desired tight-fitting; then continue from L to C B A E F and