Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/41

Rh of the round ; but if a large amount of puff is desired to the shoulder, extra round must be added above * ; the full length may then be adjusted by measuring down from top of back in the usual way allowing for seams where consumed. It will, of course, be understood our diagram does not extend to the full length.

Most of our readers will doubtless understand the details of making these garments—that the bodypart is fulled on to the yoke all the way round, the back gathered in very much at the waist and tied in with a waist-band usually made of ribbon, and that the yokes are usually the only part lined, except where the front edge is faced with silk. Now claims our attention. It is a garment largely used by nurses, elderly ladies and others, and from the demand for patterns of this kind coming at regular intervals, we are disposed to regard it as a garment that is never out of fashion ; and it will doubtless be in the recollection of many of our readers, that some four or five years ago they were one of the most popular of ladies' overgarments, indeed, the Russian Circular Cloak is only an adaptation of this garment. There are many degrees of fulness to which these may be cut, but the style we illustrate on our diagram is as close as we should ever advise, and from this it will be easy to deviate in the matter of extra room. Shows how the back is cut. Take the block pattern of the back and sidebody of an Ulster, letting them just touch at the top of sideseam K, and the bottom L. The back seam and neck may be drawn exactly the same as the back, but in order to get the seam to come on the top of the shoulder, it will be advisable to come up from A to D about 1 inch ; C to E is from 2 to 3 inches, and draw sideseam by W D E F ; mark off the length to agree with the customer's measures, and arrange the finish of the pleats in accordance with the lady's own ideas, and the back is complete. Is produced on similar lines : what was added to the back from A to D is taken off from B to F, whilst another 1 inch is added to the sideseam at H, thus making an excess of 3 to 4 inches beyond the Ulster size in the body, that being the minimum amount necessary in a garment to be worn over the arms ; the difference between the measure of chest and over arms and chest being from to H inches ; the sideseam may then be drawn from Y P, G to F. If it is desired to fasten down the fronts with holes and buttons, the usual button stand must be left on, but when, as is often the case, these garments are lined with fur, they are made to hook and eye. Sleevelets are often placed on the foreparts in something of the style shown, the seam from I to J being generally hidden by some mode of ornamentation. If fur lining is required for this, a pattern of the garment is sent to the furriers, who will send you the fur all made up to size, just ready for the outside, so that the making of a srarment of this class is a very simple matter. The same principle employed here will also produce a very pretty shoulder cape, if cut off about 14 or 15 inches from neck, but this will doubtless suggest itself.

We will now proceed with illustrations of Summer Dolmans, one or two styles of which seem to always retain their popularity—the Florence and the Princess. We will deal first with This illustrates the body part of a Summer Dolman cut from a Jacket pattern, it being much easier to cut all kinds of Dolmans from a model pattern than to work them out by system. It will be noticed the back has been reduced from D to W, so making one continuous run from waist to shoulder. The scye of the forepart has been lowered from F to G, and the bottom lengthened and made pointed ; but of course this is a matter of taste, though this is the more general way. The sidebodies are cut short, as illustrated on diagram, care being taken to put a corresponding mark on back and sidebody in order to retain the balance. The sidebodies, however, are often omitted altogether, when the forepart would be cut as per dot and dash line, from N to M and F. This answers well for such styles as the Florence, but for the Princess and similar garments it is better cut as per the solid outline. These garments are generally arranged to meet edge and edge in the front. The diagram shows a blind added for hooks and eyes, but of course this can be varied if desired by adding on a button-stand in the ordinary way beyond the breast line. This is got on very similar lines to what we have previously described. Take the sidebody and sleeves and lay them together at the hind arm pitch, the hindarm of sleeve going to the hindann pitch on sidebody. Arrange the space at Q in accordance with the desired amount of ease ; a good medium quantity is about 3 or 4 inches, then mark round from F to W, adding