Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/39

Rh popular for some time to come, hence we regard them as one of the most important of the various styles of Dolmans we shall deal with. They embody almost all the principles of cutting for all the various styles, but this will be easily understood as we proceed. The body part would he cut as diagram 53, as we have previously noted, so that all that is necessary is to describe the wing or outer forepart.

Lay the cut-out forepart and sidebody in the position shown on diagram 55—touching each other at bottom L, and with a space of not less than 3 inches at A; and in laying them together in this way, notice that the balance is not disturbed, or, in other words, see that the sidebody is not passed up or down. Now take the sleeve. Having arranged the sleeve head in the style it is desired the sleeve head of wing shall be, that is, plain or puffed, lay it with the forearm overlapping the forearm pitch about 1 inch as at K, and then bring the hindarm to the back pitch W, and the outline of wing may then he drawn, starting from B to V to F and D by the forepart, from D to W by the sleeve, but adding on whatever amount was lost to the back at the hindarm pitch, in continuing it up to the shoulder seam; now come down from W to G, and it will be found preferable to fill up the hollow above G a trifle, say a $1⁄2$ inch; then continue on to E and across the bottom from L to C. The forepart may be completed from C to B to taste, the dotted outline representing the meeting edge to edge line, cutting it away more or less from the front of forepart as fancy or customer's wishes may dictate, but it is well to remember there is a tendency for them to appear more cut away than they really are, owing to the movements of the arms.

The one great feature in these garments is to get them to fit nicely over the shoulders, with sufficient room, and yet to fit snug in at the hollow of waist. To secure this, the balance must he carefully preserved, sewing point W to the hindarm pitch of back, and carefully distributing any fulness there may be from W to D in the same way as for a sleeve: the shoulder and gorge F, V, B are sewn to the back and collar at the same time as the forepart, and in like manner the side-seam from, W to E is sewn to the back with the sidebody. Tabs should be placed about 14 or 15 inches up from C, by which to secure the wing to the forepart, or otherwise, in boisterous weather, these have a very " fly-away " tendency. As we have previously stilted, the under or body part is usually the same as an Ulster with sleeves, or with the armholes cut away to the waist, but sometimes a strip is cut off the forepart, as from V to M, diagram 55, and this is secured to the wing, an opening being left about I for the hands to come through, but this is only one of

That may be introduced. The dot and dash line G H I shows another style which has found much favour, especially with ladies who objected to the weight of the Russian Cloak, whilst it also has a fanciful appearance which readily lends itself to various styles of ornamentation. Diagram 56 is really only another adaptation of the same garment or part of garment, and, as will be seen, it illustrates the old Sling Dolman Cape so very popular a few seasons ago. As far as the principles of cut are concerned, they are identical with what we have described for diagram 55; the main point of difference lies in their being cut short, terminating about 2 or 3 inches below the natural waist, and then an extra 2 or 3 inches are left to turn up round the bottom, to meet the sling outlined by V, B, C, E, and which may be varied to taste. The wing of the

Is identical with this, but minus the sling, though it is often customary to cut them longer in front: but of course this is a matter easily adjusted to the customer's views. If a looser style of Cape is desired, open the forepart and sidebody at J, making A, as it were, a pivot: or, better still, the top of sidebody W, when more drapery will fall at the side: but these are merely side issues, which will soon suggest themselves to the cutter when once the principles of cut, as here laid down, are mastered. We will just mention one more: High puffed sleeve heads give more round between W and D, and more width at W in just the same way the alteration would be made for sleeves. These hints will, we trust, prove sufficient for the cutter to produce any style of Dolman Cape, so we will proceed to deal with

The same principle is applied here, only the forepart is omitted. Take the sidebody and sleeve and lay them together as shown at W and E with a space at E of not less than 3 inches, making this more when more freedom for the movements of the arms is desired; follow the sleeve head from D to W, adding on at W what was lost to the back as previously described for diagram 55; continue down from W to F and G, by the sidebody, filling it up ½ an inch at F. Now put the finger of the forearm pitch D, and swing the sleeve