Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/31

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{{c|{{x-larger|Section Four.}}}}

{{c|{{larger|Ladies' Ulsters.}}}} {{c|'''Diagram 35, Plate 17. Figure 29, Plate 20.'''}} We will introduce this section with the single-breasted, buttoning-through Ulster, as that probably is the style more than any other patronised by the fair sex. This section is undoubtedly one of the most important in the book, and will probably be referred to more than any of the others, for there must be few tailors, indeed, who do not get an occasional order for a Lady's Ulster, for the ladies have become so thoroughly charmed with the style in which tailors turn out overgarments in general, and Ulsters in particular, that even though they may prefer the flimsy finery of the dressmaker for their costumes, they come to us for their garments of this class. In measuring, it is an advantage to get the full length of side as well as the full length of front from nape, in addition to the measures we have previously explained, and which it will not be necessary for us to again recapitulate, so will at once proceed to deal with

{{c|{{larger|'''The System. Diagram 35.'''}}}} Draw line 0, 2½ ; O C ; to 2½ below ¾ is ⅓ neck ; from O to 2⅝ on back seam is $1/6$, natural waist ; to 8 the depth of scye ; to 15½the natural waist ; to 22 the prominence of hip ; and to C the full length, plus seams : come in from 15½ inch, and draw back seam from O to 1, springing it out below through point 22½, and running through gradually as shown ; curve the back neck by coming up ¾ above 2½. About 2 inches below line 2½ measure the width of back, pins two seams, and curve back scye slightly out to find point 6½, and then draw shoulder seam from ¾ through W. Now measure across from ½ to 20½ the half chest measure, plus 2½ inches for making ; from 20½ measure back to 12½ the across chest measure, or the average between the across chest and across bust measures ; deduct the width of back neck 2½ from front shoulder, 12, and by the remainder, 9½, sweep from 12½ : having done this, add ¾inch to this 9½, making 10¾, and sweep by that from 20½, and wherever these arcs or sweeps intersect each other, locates the neck point F, and from which measure across to V ⅓ neck, and draw breast line from V through 20½. If, however, the lady is flat at the stomach, it will be found advisable to come back ½ inch at waist, as from * to 21½ and draw the remainder of breast line from 20½through 21½. The effect of this will be to make the front slightly round at 20½, which round must lie well worked back over the breast in making up.

Now measure from ½ at 8 to W, deduct that from the over shoulder, and by the remainder sweep from 12½ to find point D, putting the finger on the tape 1½ inches up before sweeping as previously described ; get the width of shoulder by the back, making the front ¼ inch narrower, and shape the scye as shown, keeping it as hollow as possible above 12½ and well above 8. The + at V may be made a pivot to sweep the gorge from F to I. We now come to

{{c|{{larger|The Location of the Seams,}}}} And here we apply much the same method as we adopted with the Jackets, indeed an Ulster is very little different from a long Jacket. Come back from 12½ 1 inch, and divide the distance between ½ and 11½ into 3 parts, equally or nearly so ; make the back from 1 to 3 half what it is from ½ to 4¼, and shape the sideseam as shown, continuing below the waist at right angles ; come in from 3 to 4 1 inch ; make 4 7¼half an inch less than 4¼, 8 ; take out 1 inch between 7¼ 8¼; make 8¼ 11¼ half an inch less than 8, 11½, and take out 1½ inches ; now measure up the waist, and take out the surplus in a dart after allowing 1½ or 2 inches for making up ; the dart should be placed to run parallel with breast line, running rather towards the front at the bottom, and at the waist it should be about 2 inches from the breast line.

{{c|{{larger|The Spring over the Hips.}}}} Measure across from 22½ to 24, and see how that corresponds with the hip measure, and say 3 inches, most probably it will be small ; if it is, add on two-thirds at 6¾ 8½, and one-third at 2 3. The mode of extending the various seams is to draw a line from 3 through 2 for the sidebody ; square down from midway between 7¼ and 8¼, and put half the spring to be located there on either side of H, and then draw a line straight from 7¼ through 6¾, and from 8¼ through 8½ on either side. Now, if you have the length of side and front, use them to get the run of the bottom of skirt ; if you have not got these measures, measure down from the waist line at side 1 inch shorter, and at front 2 inches shorter than the back. Add on a button stand all down the front of 1¼ inches. The finish of the back varies so much, that it is difficult to say which is the most popular ; the diagram illustrates the necessary allowance 1½ inches) for a plain pleat or opening. {{nop}}