Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/30

22 come up ¾; sweep from point 1 by half the over shoulder measure, and measure from ¾ to O S one-fourth breast measure {i.e., the half breast) plus ½ inch, which finds the width of shoulder; now measure from 1 to O at bottom of scye, half the breast plus ¾ inch, and from 2 to 9¼ the half waist plus ½ inch, and complete the outline of back as shown. It will be noticed the bottom part of the back is cut separately; this is done with the view of providing sufficient spring over the hips; 1 inch is taken out at waist line as shown, and the sides sprung out as diagram shows. This skirt is generally cut about 2 inches wide. We now come to

Continue the lines 8¼, 15½, right across; square down from O, and hollow the side of forepart at waist 1 inch. Now measure across from O to 9¾, ¾ inch more than the half breast measure; then measure back from this point to 2 the across chest measure, less ½ inch, measuring back from Of; now sweep from this point 2¼ by the front shoulder measure, less the width of back neck, to find point F; then add ¾ to this, and sweep again from 9¾, and locate the neck point where these two arcs intersect each other. Now measure from 1 to O S on the back; deduct the amount from the over shoulder measure, and sweep by the remainder from 2¼, but putting the finger on the tape about 1½ inches above 2½; measure from F to D one-fourth breast plus ¼ inch. The scye may now be completed, keeping it very hollow just above 2¼. Mark out from F to X V one-sixth neck, and draw a line from X V through 9¾ to find the run of the front. The waist is now suppressed to size by means of darts, allowing about 1 inch for the seams; it only now remains to fix the length, which, in the absence of any measure being taken, should be made about 3½ inches below the line of waist at front, and 2 at the sides, but if a measure of length has been taken, use it and allow 1 inch for making up. The Vest is now complete if only intended to hook an 1 eye, but if it is intended to button, add on a button-stand of £ inch as shown on diagram 31.

These may be produced in the same way as for gents, and in the case of no collar being sewn on, it will be necessary to cut at least ½ inch on in the hollow of gorge, so that it will come as high up the neck as if it had a collar. We show the two leading styles both by figures and diagrams, which will be sufficient to illustrate both the cutting and the style of the finished garment. It will be noticed in diagram which illustrates the D.B. Vest that the lapel is sewn on; this is not absolutely necessary, but is done more with the view of giving effect, though it will not produce a better fit; there is ¾ inch taken out between the forepart and lapel, which may be done as a fish, or the lapel cut off entirely. The outline of the lapel being entirely a matter of taste, it would not be wise for us to lay down any fixed quantities, as circumstances alter the style and outline; but, as a general rule, they should be wider at the chest than the waist, but how ever it is cut, the buttons must be set as far behind the breast line as the eye of the hole is in front.

At the present time double-breasted Vests are very fashionable, some of those in wear being made up with skirts after the style of the Newmarket Bodice, but this is perhaps one of fashion's fleeting fancies.

As a general rule, ladies' Vests are made in the same way as gents'. The back is made from Silesia or Silk, and tapes placed in lieu of buckle and strap to tie it in if necessary. A watch pocket is generally inserted just above the prominence of breast, and occasionally pockets put in at the waist. The foreparts are lined and faced in the usual way, the same as gents', whilst the washing materials are made up without any inter-lining, so as to facilitate the washing, &c. Bones are seldom used in vests, though we sec no reason why they should not be used if desired, as vests are really only slight variations from bodices. These garments are being largely patronised by ladies for equestrienne purposes, many of whom are made from the regular hunt vesting as used by gents, but there is also a great demand for them for ordinary wear.

This is cut the same as the forepart illustrated on diagram 31 and fastened to the side and shoulder seams of the Jacket they are to be worn with. Care must of course be taken to see that the sideseam is arranged in harmony with that of the Jacket, so that if it is made more forward or backward, the width of Vest forepart may also be varied in like manner; but this can easily be arranged by placing the breast line of Jacket on the top of the Vests, and adjusting them together in that way. We have previously referred to these on page 14, so that we will not deal with them further than to point out the opportunity it offers to give effect, by the introduction of different coloured cloth or some ornamental design of braiding, whilst at the same time they allow of a loose-fronted Jacket being worn and kept close to the waist, &c., without its being apparently fastened, the vest holding it secure to the back and sides.