Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/29

Rh will be made for the busts. The length from nape to prominence is applied as per dotted line, always adding 1 inch to the actual length taken on the figure, to compensate the seams on the shoulder. The same also applies to the waist line, which in this case drops a little in the front, and which drop commences from the side. We have found great difference to exist in the run of the waist line; some ladies are very "embonpoint," whilst others are very flat. With the former the waist generally runs up, whilst with the latter it runs down; hence a measure to exactly locate this will be found a great assistance. The lower termination of the darts must of course be arranged in accordance with the figure, but under any circumstances it will generally be found preferable to make it rather too tight than too loose, as the bones, &c., in the front keep it from riding up round the waist.

Few remarks require to be made under this head after what we said for the normal Dress Bodice, as it nearly all applies with equal force to either large or small sizes, with the exception, perhaps, of wadding and padding, which we left as an open question. But in figures such as we are dealing with, it should be carefully avoided; indeed, anything which has a tendency to make the figure—which is already too big—appear larger, should be avoided; and although many ladies of this class of figure make comfort and ease the first consideration, yet, as a general rule, it will be found they very much prefer a garment too small to one too large.

The stand of the collar should not be made too deep, neither should there be too much fulness in the sleeve heads, but we shall deal with the sleeves as we proceed, taking one of this size as an example. Although we are showing the working of the system by means of a Dress Bodice, yet as far as the principles of fit are concerned, they would be applied in the same manner to Jackets, Ulsters and Dolmans, the variations in style being produced by altering the position of the seams, and increasing in a more or less degree the allowance for making.

{{c|{{larger|Vests.}} {{c|'''Dias. 29 to 34. Figs 27 and 28. Plate 16.'''}} Ladies' Vests have become so popular during the past few years, that we now regard them as a prominent feature in ladies' attire. Up till recently, however, they have more generally been imitations or false vests, fastened to the foreparts or inside of the jacket or bodice with which they were worn, and as they still continue to be worn in this style it will be necessary for us to give instructions on the mode of cutting and making

{{c|{{larger|'''Sham Vests. Diagrams 29, 30, 34.'''}}}} These are extremely simple in their construction. and as they admit of considerable variety being introduced into the costume, we doubt not they will long continue popular. The way to cut them is to take the patterns of forepart and back of jacket as illustrated on diagram 30; mark round the gorge and front edge, and mark A B C as wide or narrow as taste may dictate. They are then made up with the usual stand collar and holes and buttons, and then fastened into the bodice, either by means of basting, holes and buttons, or such mode of securing it as may be preferred. In this way the lady may have several different vests, and so introduce considerable variety in her costume.

In diagram 29 the collar and turn is laid on the forepart in addition to the ordinary stand collar. It is cut by placing the back and forepart together, and marking from B to A by the point from where the turn is intended to start, and round to the centre of the back neck; the depth of the collar and the general outline of the lapel is then arranged to taste. A seam is left as from A to B, illustrated by dotted line, to allow of its being sewn on and turned over. This style of laid-on collar and lapel at once gives the idea of a vest, and if the three-corner piece A C B is put in of different material, this is brought out more prominently. In diagram 34 the forepart is really made up of two pieces instead of one, the part from A to B forwards being made of fancy material, and the seam from A to B hidden by means of the revers. There are many other ways in which Sham Vests are adapted to both Jackets and Costumes, but we need not describe them in detail, as the same principle applies to them all, and doubtless our readers will find these remarks quite sufficient to guide them in their Production, so we will proceed to deal with Vests when made and worn as separate garments. We will give two styles, both of which are very popular at present, as illustrations of the style-of Vest dealt with in the diagrams.

{{c|{{larger|'''The System. Diagram 32.'''}}}} We have not given any special instructions for measuring, as the ordinary bodice measures will do well, with the addition of length to opening and full length taken from nape. Commence at top of back, and draw lines W 2½, W 15½; from W to 8¼ is the depth of scye; continue to 15½ the natural waist length, and come in 2 inches, and draw line from W to 2, which finds the back seam from W to 2½ is one-sixth neck, from which point