Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/27

Rh between the sidebody and sidepiece, and 1 inch between the sidepiece and forepart; when the remainder necessary to reduce the waist to measure is taken out in darts, allowing 1½ to 2 inches for seams at the waist. The narrowness of the back at waist necessitates the sideseam being drawn freehand, and having located it in that way to measure back from 12 to 11 one inch, and dividing the distance from 11 to 3½ into two equal or nearly equal parts, following the usual plan of making both sidebody and sidepiece each half an inch narrower at waist-band than on the depth of scye line. The spring over the hips is not so pronounced as for ladies' costume bodice, &c., but this is not so noticeable now as it would have been in the days of more prominent bustles, &c. We will now give a few

A waist-band is invariably placed at the waist, and firmly secured to the seams at the back and side, below which tabs are placed with either eyes or eyelets in them, at parts to agree with fastenings placed in the train; usually they are placed one at the centre of back and one on either side at hips, the object of course being to secure the train. The bottom part of bodice is faced with the same material as the outside, about 2 inches deep at front and sides, and continuing straight across the back skirts; and in putting the facing in the back skirts, it should be put in rather short, so that the tails shall curl inwards. Whalebones are placed at all the seams (unless the customer objects), none of which should come higher than the top of breast darts, or lower than within half an inch of the bottom; the bones should be put in as long as possible, curving the garment to the shape of the figure previously to fastening them, which should be done at top, middle, and bottom, the casings being made from silesia on the bias, and care must be exercised in sewing them to the seams, and full them on over the waist.

If, as is usually the case, it is made to fasten with holes and buttons, it will be necessary to add on a button stand as illustrated on diagram, and for this purpose add ½an inch on the button hole side, and 1 inch or more on the button side; this allows of the holes coming exactly in the centre of the figure, and the extra button stand hides any possibility of the underclothing peeping through the ends of the holes. It will be advisable to put a V of silk in the button stand, as shown on the waist line, which allows it to go nicely to the figure at that part, and prevents any dragging tendency. The buttons are put closer together than was formerly done, which we think is an improvement. If made with stand collar the collar has hooks and eyes placed at the top to keep it fastened. We recently had the opportunity of inspecting a Habit made for a very stylish young lady by the celebrated firm of Wolmerhausen & Co., it had an interlining over the back and forepart of horse-hair, which kept it very firm above where the corsets reached; it was lined through with silk, pleats were placed in the forepart lining opposite the prominence of the bust, and another vertically, as is now generally done in vests, running from shoulder downwards, and allowing ample scope for it to adjust itself, whilst, of course, it was put in very long at the waist section all round. Needless to remark, the sleeve linings were flash-baisted to the seams, both forearm and hindarm, and two or three small pieces of dommett serged to the scye seams on the top of the shoulder to facilitate the distribution of fulness in the sleeve head, and at the same time produce as good form as possible.

It may be important to give a few particulars with reference to

Mostly used, as this work will most probably be consulted by many young men undertaking the order for a Riding Habit for the first time. The usual material is a heavy Melton, more generally black, but by no means always so, browns, greens, plum colours, &c., all being largely used. Occasionally we see one of grey Worsted, and now and then a drab Tweed, but both of these are the exception, and may for all practical purposes be ignored, for there can be no doubt Melton is regarded as the Habit cloth. For Summer wear Vicunas and Twill Saxonies are often used; but these have such a marked resemblance to the Melton, that Ave might almost put them in the same class, being only thinner. The edges are either single or double stitched, and in the case of the better Meltons the edges are left raw.

The quantity of material required for a Habit Bodice is about 1¼ yards; the train taking 2½ to 2¾; but we deal with that in another section.

Calling one day on Mr. George Smith, the celebrated Ladies' Tailor of South Molton Street, we were shown some fine specimens of Ladies' Tailoring, and amongst them the new Habit, the details of which, as he pointed them out to us, we took note of, and have embodied in the figure and diagram. They were made straight round the hips, and cut away in the front from just below the waist, just showing a little of the fancy vest of hunting pattern, which invariably accompanies this style. The lapels were somewhat heavy and opened rather low, above which the vest showed, introducing a little brightness to the dull colour of the bodice. The