Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/23

Rh Deducting 0, ¾ from the front shoulder measure 12, and by the remainder sweep to find point F, using point 12 as the pivot; now add ¾ inch to this quantity, and sweep again from 20 as illustrated by dotted line 12¾, and where these two segments cross each other locates the neck point F; now measure the distance from to W of the back, deduct this from the over shoulder measure, and by the remainder sweep from point 12 to find D, so that this sweep finds the shoulder slope. The width of front shoulder as from F to D is ¼ inch less than width of back from ¾ in the direction of W. Come forward from F to V ⅓ neck, make V a pivot, and sweep gorge from F, then draw the centre line of breast from V + through 20; now draft the scye, keeping it as hollow as possible above point 12, and well up at A B. We next turn our attention to

Come back from 12 one inch, and find point 11: divide the distance from 11 to h, into 4 equal parts as illustrated at 3¼, 6, 8½, 11; make the width of back from 1 to 2½, half the distance from ½ to 3¼, and draw sideseam from A through 3¼, 2½ continuing below 2½ at right angles to 15½, 2½. Now, before we proceed further, we think it will be well to apply side length from bottom of scye to find the run of the waist line, allowing ¼ inch for seams; next apply the length of front as from F to 21½, as illustrated by 19 + 1, the 1 inch being allowed to compensate for the seams. Having found these points, draw the waist line from 2½ to 11, and on to 21½; having got this, we proceed with locating the seams; next sweeping from point 3¼ as at A to find the top of sidebody, then use point A and sweep from point 2½, and then we draw the waist line forsidebody as illustrated. But before we go any further, we must consider the importance of

Which we generally arrange by fixed quantities, varying it according to judgment by increasing it for prominent blades, and reducing it for flat. The amount we usually take out between back and sidebody is ¾of an inch as at 2½, 3¼, and draw the sidebody as shown, taking out a little at A. Make the width of sidebody from 3¼to 5½, ½ an inch less than from 3¼ to 6; come from 5½ to 6¼ ¾ of an inch: and make the width of first sidepiece an inch less than 6, 8½; take out ¾ of an inch from 8¼ to 9, and make the width of the second sidepiece ½an inch less than 8¼, 11, and take out 1 inch from 11 to 12. Now measure up the various parts at the waist, as from 1 to 2½; 3¼ to 5½: 6¼ to 8¼; and 9 to 11; and then apply it from 12 to 21½, and then reduce the waist to measure by means of

Allowing about 1½ inches for making up. This may appear a small quantity to allow for no less than 14 seams, but experience tells us it is more often too much than too little, the elasticity of the material, and the desire to get a tight-fitting waist being factors not to be overlooked. Suppose there is 3¼ inches to come out in darts, we take 1½ out of the first one, placing it about 1½ inches from the breast line, leave 1½ inches between the two darts, and take out the remainder in the back dart; always get the darts to run rather towards the front at bottom than the reverse. For this purpose, draw the dotted line as represented in the centre of the darts, parallel to the breast line, terminating them by letting them meet about 10 inches below the waist line as shown on diagram. It only remains now to adjust

By measuring up the various parts at the bottom, and letting them overlap each other, so that 3 inches of surplus size is left for ease and making up, distributing the extra amount required about equally at the various seams. Add on ¾ of an inch for the button-stand on the hole side, and 1½ on the button side, if it is desired to fasten the bodice in the ordinary S.B. style, or arrange a lapel after the manner described for the D.B. Newmarket if it is wished to be D.B., while if it is desired to fasten with hooks and eyes a seam left beyond breast line will be all that is needed. Having arranged the fronts in accordance with the style of fastening desired the bodice is complete. We will

On no account sew the lining and the outside together at the same time, as the dressmakers do, because the linings require to be wider and longer in the hollow, and shorter over the curves, just as the inner edge of a circle is shorter than the outer edge, so must the outside be to the lining. It is the tailor's aim to make the outside fit; the lining is merely an accessory; it is the dressmaker's aim to make the lining fit. Have your bone casings put in very long over the waist; let them be made from material on the bias; do not let them come higher than the top of the darts, or nearer the bottom than ½ an inch; let the bones be carefully prepared and firmly secured. In sewing the seams, full on the round ones a trifle, especially when they are