Page:The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments.djvu/22

14 Take the skirt pattern and close the V's of waist-seam, and mark round just that part the flap is desired to cover. Flaps are of course usually arranged on the hips so as to cover the V's taken out there. The dotted line A B represents A B of diagram 19. This is really all the fitting part there is, for the marking of the outline is purely a matter of taste, and as such it is very varied. The outline of diagram 20 illustrates the general style of outline used by tailors, but we have also seen a large number made pointed at either end and one point in the centre. This enables extra deep darts being hid without the flaps being made exceptionally heavy, if the points are carefully adjusted to the V's.

Pockets are sometimes placed under these flaps, but they are more frequently made sham.

There is one other very important class we have not yet treated of, viz., the

Style, or Jacket with Vest fronts added to the side-seams. These are very popular, and as they allow ample scope for the introduction of ornamental trimming, either braid or contrasting material there is little doubt they will continue to be so, for they have a style so distinctly their own, and have such a careful graceful appearance that whether it is summer or winter, this class of jacket hold their own, for in winter the vest may be made of fur whilst in summer there are plenty of makers of fancy yestingsvestings [sic] suitable, so that it is distinctly an all the year round style, but inasmuch as we are giving a full description of all kinds of Vests in another chapter, we have omitted special diagrams and description to explain the system purposely, as the Jackets are cut in exactly the same way as others, the fronts being more generally loose-fronted aud often cut away; sometimes arranged to merely hook and eye at the neck, and at others arranged with a collar and turn, but in any case the outline of diagram 3 may be followed, the fronts being merely cutaway in accordance with taste, and the Vest front sewn in with the side, scye, and shoulder seams. A reference to the chapter on vests will doubtless make this matter quite clear.

This concludes our section on Jackets. "We have treated of tight-fitting, loose-fitting, single-breasted, double-breasted, and skirted styles of Jackets, and although doubtless there are many we have not illustrated, yet our aim has been to take representatives of each class, and so lay the foundation for our readers to develop any outline they may think fit.

As the Dress Bodice is probably one of the most important garments ladies' tailors have to deal with, we will treat of it as fully as possible, and as there are many points of difference to the Jacket System, we will describe it in detail, although our readers will at once recognise the same principle involved in both. The measures we take for these are as follows: depth of scye, natural waist, full length of back, side length from the bottom of armpit to natural waist over the hips, width across baok; continue to elbow and on to full length of cuff with the arm bent; width across chest, width across bust, half neck from nape to front, front shoulder from nape to bottom of scye in front. Nape to prominence of breast, nape to hollow of waist in front, over shoulder from depth of scye on back over shoulder from depth of scye on back over the shoulder and down in the front of scye to the bottom of armpit; size of chest, size of waist and size of hips. These measures would robably run as follows, 8¼ depth of scye, 15½ natural waist, 21½ full length, 7¼ side length, 5½ width across back, 19 continue to elbow, 27½ to full length of sleeve, 7¼ width across chest, 8¾ width across bust, 7½ neck, 12 front shoulder, 13 nape to prominence, 19 nape to hollow of waist, 16 over shoulder, 36 chest, 26 waist, 44 hips.

The application of these measures are as follows, see

Draw line O 21½, and proceed to mark off to 2 ⅛ natural waist; to 8¼ the depth of scye as taken on the customer, to 5½ the natural waist length, and to 21½ the full length desired, plus seams (½ inch); draw line at right angles to these various points, and proceed by coming in one inch at natural waist, and draw line from to 1, and continue back seam by springing it out below 1, till it meets line at 21½. From O to 22½ is ⅓ neck, from which come up ¾ inches; measure across from 2 to 6 the width of back, plus 2 seams ½ inch), and from ½ to 20 the half chest, plus 1½ or 2 inches for making up, ease, &c. This allowance must be varied according to judgment, allowing more of the material is thick and unyielding; and less if the material is thin and elastic. If the garment is desired easy fitting, allow the larger quantity. From 20 measure back to 12 the average between the across chest and across bust, thus: 7¼ + 8¾ = 16, half this =8 which is the amount to come back from point 20 to find the front of scye. We next proceed to get